3.4 Timing belt

[jdmcq]

My timing belt is due for replacement. I was going to have my mechanic do it, but I spent the money on my AR-15 upper, so it looks like another driveway job.

I've read most of the how to threads. Anyone have any advice?

 

[AlienXtx]

Robs your huckleberry on this one John, he's done a few for himself and for a few members.

 

[jdmcq]

Thanks Keith. I have some time, I am gonna wait til late spring/summer.

 

[yotarob]

It's not too bad of a job. I have done 5 or 6 of them now. The biggest trick is going to be breaking the crankshaft bolt loose, I had to fab up a tool. If you want I could either show you how to make one or ship you mine, you ship it back when your done.

 

[jdmcq]

Thanks Rob, I have some steel laying around the garage and I haven't used the welder in a bit so I am probably going to fab one up.

 

[yotarob]

I'll get you a pic and some measurments off of mine. It is a pretty simple tool but make life much easier. Otherwise it is a basic hand tools job. I recomend that you buy new idler bearings and have them on hand before you tear into it, you could always return them if you determin that yours are fine. Memeber Mauzer had a really nice and complete kit when we did his, maybe he could get you a link to it.

 

[jdmcq]

The kit I was looking at had the idlers in it, I figured might as well replace them while I was in there, couldn't hurt.

 

[TKGN1]

Wouldn't hurt to do the waterpump while your in there either, its not real expensive and you won't have to worry about it down the road.

 

[jdmcq]

No doubt, the water pump is getting done at the same time. Sure as hell, if I don't do it, it will take a crap on me the day after I get it back together.

 

[yotarob]

John here are the specs on the tool I made to hold the harmonic balancer while you break the crank bolt loose.

2" wide x 5/8" thick x 24" long Aluminum
1-1/4" hole for socket to pass through
(2) 3/8" holes, 2-7/8" apart
(2) 3/8" bolts 1-1/2" long
(2) 3/8" nuts
(4) 3/8" flat washers.

I have used the tool several times and it works fine, I might suggest you try using a tad bit longer bolt though, maybe 1-3/4" or 2".

The pics should explain it all. The exposed threads on the 3/8" bolts slide into the 2 holes on the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) and the other end of the tool rest against the frame rail. The 1-1/4" hole allows your socket to pass through, you will need a good length cheater pipe. That fucker is going to be tight.

Another thing that I have had to get creative with is removing the pulley once the bolt is out. I have had a few come off by hand, but most of the time I have had to use a puller. Since the holes in the crank pulley are not threaded it makes using a Harmonic balancer puller difficult but the trick is to have some 1/4"-20 all thread on hand and cut two lengths that will pass through the holes in the pulley. It is a pain but if you use a telescoping stick magnet you can get a nut on the back side. I'll let you know if I remember any more tricks.

 

[jdmcq]

Thanks Rob. Are those bolts 2 7/8 apart center to center?

I have a leftover chinu-bar from my excercise machine assembly over/ the weekend (too tall, I chopped the top off) and some steel plate from the office, I will likely just weld those two together and drill the holes.

 

[yotarob]

2-7/8" center to center. You could make one a million different ways. I do like the thickness of mine because the surface are against the frame helps the bar to stay strait when you put a shit ton of torque on it.

 

[jdmcq]

I like your design too, I'm just trying to use free stuff around the garage.

 

[yotarob]

Free stuff is always the best