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Thread: Tubbed fender wells

  1. #21
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    just as an update to this.......... I cut my pinch weld off, peel open the seam, beat the fuck out of the inside piece (about 2" back) then beat the outside pice back to meet the other piece and mared them back together. The siliconed the seam.


    And I still rub a little when stuffed with 33's............fuck.

  2. #22
    Senior Member TacoXpo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    just as an update to this.......... I cut my pinch weld off, peel open the seam, beat the fuck out of the inside piece (about 2" back) then beat the outside pice back to meet the other piece and mared them back together. The siliconed the seam.


    And I still rub a little when stuffed with 33's............fuck.
    Wow that sucks... I know 3 folks that run 35s - They are Lt though.

    Just a note... seam sealer of some sort would be better. Silicone tends to retain water or some-some and causes rust. California cars never used silicone (they reserved that for the women) - that's why the cars there don't rust.
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  3. #23
    I'll try anything once drew02a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacoXpo View Post
    ...that's why the cars there don't rust.
    I call BS. There's no way that no silicone prevents the rust. Probably the extremely temperate climate?
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  4. #24
    Senior Member TacoXpo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drew02a View Post
    I call BS. There's no way that no silicone prevents the rust. Probably the extremely temperate climate?
    Oh I hear you on the Cali thing but I have heard that silicone breaks down and then causes small pores that can retain moisture.
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  5. #25
    I'll try anything once drew02a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacoXpo View Post
    Oh I hear you on the Cali thing but I have heard that silicone breaks down and then causes small pores that can retain moisture.
    That's easier to swallow; spot rust around the gaskets could be the result of silicone
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  6. #26
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    I'm thinking of trying a 1/4 wheel spacer up front and see it that stops it, I think it will.......

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacoXpo View Post
    Oh I hear you on the Cali thing but I have heard that silicone breaks down and then causes small pores that can retain moisture.
    and it shrinks over time too.

  8. #28
    You want snowballs? SecretSquirrel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienXtx View Post
    and it shrinks over time too.
    Maybe for you...

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by SecretSquirrel View Post
    Maybe for you...
    no homo?

  10. #30
    Senior Member PSU Taco85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    I'm thinking of trying a 1/4 wheel spacer up front and see it that stops it, I think it will.......
    What's your backspacing on the wheels? I have 4" backspacing and had to cut the hell out of my wheel wells to get the tires stuffed too

  11. #31
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
    What's your backspacing on the wheels? I have 4" backspacing and had to cut the hell out of my wheel wells to get the tires stuffed too
    I wish I had 4" backspacing.......mine are 4.5. My rubbing problem is on the frame it self and upper fender well.

  12. #32
    Senior Member PSU Taco85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    I wish I had 4" backspacing.......mine are 4.5. My rubbing problem is on the frame it self and upper fender well.
    a 1/4" wheel spacer might help for you then, most of the rubbing I have is on the outer fender (not the flare but fender itself), I have cut it back a little bit but I will end up ripping the flares off soon I can feel it

    See if you can get your caster raised to something over 3 if it isn't already, that will push the wheel further up in the wheel well.

  13. #33
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    I need to find an alignment shop that will do it.......I ask for me Caster above 4* every time and they always say that it's at 2* and they can't get it any more........that's bullshit judging by the look of the cams.

  14. #34
    Senior Member TacoXpo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    I need to find an alignment shop that will do it.......I ask for me Caster above 4* every time and they always say that it's at 2* and they can't get it any more........that's bullshit judging by the look of the cams.
    Post up your numbers.
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  15. #35
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    I will next time I get it alligned.....they have never given me a print out....

    Last time they said me Caster was at 1.8* and 2.0* and that was as far as they could get it, but cams should be offset to add caster corrrect? Rear facing this way > front this way <.

  16. #36
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    Now they are both inward > front and rear.

  17. #37
    Senior Member PSU Taco85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    I will next time I get it alligned.....they have never given me a print out....

    Last time they said me Caster was at 1.8* and 2.0* and that was as far as they could get it, but cams should be offset to add caster corrrect? Rear facing this way > front this way <.
    That sounds like a bunch of BS. I'd take it to a different place. I have same set up as you (Icons and TC UCA), and my guy last set my caster at 2.4 when I got it aligned with still plenty of adjustment left on the cams. I would think the cams would face opposite to pull the front bushings in and push the rears out.

  18. #38
    Senior Member Lrgrnr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
    That sounds like a bunch of BS. I'd take it to a different place. I have same set up as you (Icons and TC UCA), and my guy last set my caster at 2.4 when I got it aligned with still plenty of adjustment left on the cams. I would think the cams would face opposite to pull the front bushings in and push the rears out.

    I'll take a look at your this eennin......Bad thing about taking to some place else is that the rest of the paces are more dumbfucked than this guy..........Nicks is set near 5* and he has the built right UCA's...

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by TacoXpo View Post
    Wow that sucks... I know 3 folks that run 35s - They are Lt though.

    Just a note... seam sealer of some sort would be better. Silicone tends to retain water or some-some and causes rust. California cars never used silicone (they reserved that for the women) - that's why the cars there don't rust.
    For work we always use 100% silicone in wet environments when sealing metal to metal or glass to glass or glass to metal (showers).
    For masonry to metal or metal to metal gaps that will see contraction and expansion due to large temp changes we use Urethane or polyurethane.

    I think no matter what you use they KEY is to prep the area properly and use quality stuff. Home Depot or Lowes carry home owner crap that doesn't last very well. I would check out industrial manufacturers like Sonneborn, BASF, Dow, or similar. Personally I use DOW 795 100% silicone on my truck. Not only is it a sealer it's an adhesive and provides a 30 year warranty when applied correctly. Ive used it at work for products ranging from shower doors to sticking glass to glass in elevated situations. It's supposed to be as strong as mechanical fasteners.

    Quote Originally Posted by drew02a View Post
    That's easier to swallow; spot rust around the gaskets could be the result of silicone
    Some silicone's will eat paint - some will not. Maybe that's what is the issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    I will next time I get it alligned.....they have never given me a print out....

    Last time they said me Caster was at 1.8* and 2.0* and that was as far as they could get it, but cams should be offset to add caster corrrect? Rear facing this way > front this way <.
    Those guys are full of Total Bullshit. We discussed this before and both of us are running TC UCA's. My caster has always been around 2.9 for the past 20k and David T. from TW had to fight my truck to get it that low. On my last alignment after rebuilding pretty much the entire IFS I had them drop it down to 2.5 and they said that was the least they could do. Now I rub my fenders with 31's in reverse in a full turn on flat ground

  20. #40
    I'll try anything once drew02a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lrgrnr View Post
    Now they are both inward > front and rear.
    Your tie rods may need trimming to be able to get the right toe at that extreme caster. And most shops won't do that
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