DIY LCA Ball Joint Replacement 2005+ Tacoma

Discussion in 'Mechanical' started by Oswego, Aug 11, 2011.

  1. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    This is for removal and replacement of a OE LCA BJ ONLY.
    I am not covering the removal of OE components that are in the way of LCA BJ removal and installation.


    Tip: Aftermarket BJ's differ in size so if you have a used truck measure the ones on your truck before you purchase/borrow tools.

    Tip: You should also purchase the replacement BJ or get the specifications for the one you plan on using so you can insure you have the proper ball joint press adapter.

    <<<A front end alignment is highly recommended after you swap ball joints!!!>>>


    Tools required:

    Common Sense
    1/2" Impact ratchet
    1/2" Ratchet
    Torch
    Ball Joint press
    7/8" Impact socket (1/2" drive) for above BJ press
    <<Specialized Ball Joint adapters>> see the bottom of this post and the installation post for specifications and pictures
    Flat head screwdriver
    Hammer
    Needle nose pliers or similar
    Vise Grips
    24mm impact socket (1/2" drive)
    PB Blaster or similar
    Mobil 1 or similar
    Wire brush or similar
    Gloves
    Safety glasses
    Fire extinguisher
    Welders gloves
    Welders mat
    Freezer
    External/Internal spring clip pliers


    It's YOUR responsibility to wear the proper PPE and use common sense. This could prove dangerous if the tools required are used in manners they were not designed or intended for. Do not apply torque to the tools past their recommended limit.


    Removal

    Note: Lube all threaded bolts, nuts, BJ's, etc. before attempting to loosen or press them out.



    Step 1: Remove cotter pin located at the bottom of the BJ. Both of mine were in between the nut. I flattened out the back of the cotter pins, locked a set of vise grips on them, and tapped them from behind with a hammer so the head protruded enough so that I could remove it with pliers. Throw cotter pin away - the new BJ will come with one - these are NOT to be re-used.

    [​IMG]



    Step 2: Remove the BJ nut with a 24mm impact socket. Throw nut away - the new BJ will come with a nut - these are NOT to be re-used.

    [​IMG]



    Step 3:
    A; Remove spring clip from BJ with a hammer and flat head screwdriver. This clip may pop off at speed so be careful. Throw spring clip away - the new BJ will have one with it - these are NOT to be re-used.


    [​IMG]


    B; Clean the top of the BJ with a wire brush then spray with PB.

    Tip:I performed steps 1-3 and then left the PB to work overnight.

    [​IMG]




    Step 4: Remove steering stop (AKA: Front lower ball joint attachment) by hitting the sides of the LCA and top of the BJ with a hammer. Do NOT hit the steering stop. You could mar or bend it and it WILL be re-used. The steering stop will literally fall to the ground.

    Tip: The steering stop is now mobile and can be moved so you can get the path of least resistance to the sides of the LCA with a hammer. The LCA has flat spots on both sides and this is where I struck it. Take care to hit exactly on top and center of the BJ. Do not hit the top of the BJ near the sides. Hitting the sides of the BJ's top could result in the top bending and ultimately grooving the BJ seat during removal.

    Tip: A pickle fork can also be utilized to do this task. I chose to use as little "specialty" tools as possible so the typical DIY'er can perform this task with the least amount of money out of pocket. I did not however risk safety in my efforts to be cheap.

    [​IMG]



    Step 5:
    A; Install ball joint press and specialized ball joint adapter.


    [​IMG]


    B; Heat the LCA evenly around the BJ.


    Tip: Be safe! Depending on what steps and parts you removed to start this project some parts may be in the way of heat or flame. Cover these items with a welders mat.


    C; Using the impact wrench torque the ball joint until it sits flush with the top of the LCA (no pictures available - see below for reference).


    D; Loosen the press and remove the top plate - Be careful - it is now extremely hot and you need to work fast for this step and "E".

    [​IMG]


    E; Install the press directly on the center of the BJ and torque until it falls out - remember it's HOT!!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Misc Pictures & Tools I used:


    Specialized press adapter
    The specifications for the adapter state it is: ID 2-7/16" X OD 2-3/4" X L 2-7/8"


    OD

    [​IMG]


    ID

    [​IMG]



    Kit the specialized adapter came in (U.S. General Master Ball Joint Adapter Set).

    The kit was purchased from Harbor Freight for $60. OTC supposedly sells the exact adapters required for late model Toyota's. I chose the HF kit so I could work on other vehicles as well.

    Tip: If you need to shop around make sure you bring the dimensions of the old and new ball joint with you to insure proper adapter procurement.

    [​IMG]




    OE BJ

    OD

    [​IMG]



    New Moog BJ # K80827

    OD

    [​IMG]



    Rented BJ press (these can be found at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc.). You simply leave a deposit and get the entire deposit refunded once you return the tool in good working order.

    Tip: Inspect the tool for cracks or damage before you pay for it or leave.

    [​IMG]



    Misc:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tons of force

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2011
  2. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    Installation

    Step 1: Freeze the new BJ for approximately an hour.

    Tip: You can also heat the BJ seat on the LCA like I did when I removed the BJ's or install the new BJ immediately after removing the old one while the seat is still hot. I chose not to go that route because I had thrown a new coat of primer/paint on my LCA's after removing all the rust and bushings from them.



    Step 2: Lube up the BJ, BJ seat, and spring clip seat.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Step 3: Install press and fittings. Now press them using an impact ratchet.

    Tip: If you do not center the press perfectly the BJ will not seat evenly. Take the time to be precise like I did and they will go in on the first try.

    [​IMG]

    Top collar OD:
    [​IMG]

    Bottom collar OD:
    [​IMG]




    Tip: I knew I had the BJ fully seated when Mobil-1 stopped squirting out from the bottom.

    [​IMG]



    Step 4: Install the spring clip with spring clip pliers

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note: Moog does not provide threads in the BJ for the provided zerks. You must thread them yourself before installation of the zerks.


    Overview: I would consider the BJ removal/installation a simple - moderate job for first timers like myself. With the proper tools I would assume this specific task would take no longer then and hour for both sides if you remove the OE BJ and immediately insert the new BJ while the seat is hot.

    Ill add more installation info for installing the BJ to the steering stop when I get to that point. Right now I'm keeping them off until the LCA's are mounted on the truck.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2011
  3. TacoXpo

    TacoXpo TLA

    Good man!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
     
  4. drew02a

    drew02a Moderator Staff Member

  5. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    NP

    I don't know about "new territory" but all be damned if I could find a complete write up that utilized safe techniques. I'm alone in my backyard wrenching 99% of the time so safety is key.

    One of these days Ill have someone over so I can clean my gutters safely lol
     
  6. TacoXpo

    TacoXpo TLA

    What town do you hail from? I lived in Belle Mead until I was 18 and stayed in Seaside and Ocean City during the summers.
     
  7. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&c...esult&ct=title&resnum=2&sqi=2&ved=0CCoQ8gEwAQ

    I wish I was down the shore. My burbs suck. If I played golf it would be cool. I have the #1 course in the country 200 yards from my house and 2 others in our town that are ok.


    Oh and Drew I'm not allowed to post in the 2nd gen section for some reason? Guess you didn't want every post from a n00b clogging it up like in tardville?
     
  8. drew02a

    drew02a Moderator Staff Member

    2nd gen article section? Only pre approved content goes there. If you'd like to get something in there, just send me a PM
     
  9. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    oh...I didn't read the article part. I just saw 2nd gen and tried to post it there :o

    So a guy on TTORA warned me that he had a BJ explode from heat and fly out of the seat and chip a concrete floor. I wish it was that easy lol
     
  10. Anathollo

    Anathollo Armorall is my choice of lube Staff Member

    Great writeup! I'm going to be doing this later this year. Both of mine have a slight leak and are losing grease. I'm going to do this + new brake pads + new rotors(hopefully) all at the same time.
     
  11. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    If they are already leaking you can inject new grease with a needle fitting. I did that to get me by for a little while until I had time and a borrowed DD to get my truck done.
     
  12. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    Anyone got any tips for LCA bushing removal? I read a couple threads and tried pressing them out with the same tools as the BJ, but I'm getting no where fast with these things. My next move is to heat them but I was trying to avoid that. Unlike the BJ seat the bushing tubes look thin and weak so I'm not sure if heat is the best bet in the long run.
     
  13. drew02a

    drew02a Moderator Staff Member

    Is it all rubber, or is there a metal sleeve?
     
  14. AlienXtx

    AlienXtx Fuck Off!

    I thought this got moved to the 2nd gen write up section?
     
  15. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    It has a metal sleeve and I have been soaking the passenger side for 3 days and still no go. I finally just got done hacking the drivers side LCA off today. I read some of the write ups like I said but nothing exactly for 2nd gen. Ill have to take a look at TTORA again. The main issue is once they are seized you need to cut off the backside metal leaving you nothing to push on. I'm just started soaking the drivers side. Ill throw up some pics when I figure out how to again...:o

    Would heat in moderation screw with the metal? I know those tubes are prone to split as is so I'm a little concerned with heat. Ill mess around tonight and hopefully figure something out.
     
  16. Lrgrnr

    Lrgrnr Well-Known Member

    BFH and a punch? drive them out?
     
  17. taco4x4rar

    taco4x4rar Well-Known Member

    2 ways to get those out when they are seized like that, 1. use an actuall press and a die that just fits the ID of the of the LCA mount and just pop them out or 2. if they are rubber use an torch to simply melt them out. Option 2 is what I've done to get old rubber bushings out of leaf springs and such.
     
  18. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    Highly doubtful. Ive been using the press I rented to do the BJ's and they won't budge. I gave up on it for tonight and Ill hit them in the morning with a fresh head of steam.

    None of my adapters are the right size and the only ones I have are riding on the rubber...looks like I need to find some other avenue. I need to get my wheel bearings pressed out/in so I might as well have these pressed out as well. I just wanted to DIY as much as possible. I can press them in NP.
     
  19. drew02a

    drew02a Moderator Staff Member

  20. Oswego

    Oswego n00b

    Thanks Drew! Ill notch the top, chisel it, and pry it with my pipe wrench tomorrow. All I have to do is break the grip the rust has on it and I should be able to press it out. Worst case it goes to the shop with the wheel bearings and I get raped with our overpriced labor.
     

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