Silverbacks trailer to haul his booshi shit.. not my word.. its TacoXpo's.

[TacoXpo]

I have been thinking about this and decided to drill a 1/2 hole in the tongue and weld in a 1/2' nut. This will allow me to screw in a bolt to keep it tight. Who doesn't love a tight hole?

Especially a black, overweight one

 

[Silverback]

Started on the inbox lighting. Picked up these LED undermount lights that are angled and fit in the corner awsomely. I need to get some Right Stuff to adhere them to the box a little better. My guess is this double sided tape will fail the first time it gets hot. Also need to tie up the excess wire. Plan is for a switch that you control right near the opening. Not one that stays on despite the door being open.

6pcs LED Under Cabinet Lighting Kit, Extendable Under Counter LED Light Bar (5000K Daylight), Manual Switch, UL-listed Power Adapter for Gun Box, Safe, Locker, Closet, Shelf, Show Case Lighting - - Amazon.com

 

[Silverback]

Got the receiver hitch clearanced out with the carbide burr. Drill a hole for a snug-down bolt and welded in place. Gave it a coat of VHT, Snug as a bug. Need to get a locking hitch pin next.

 

[Silverback]

As expected, and it wasn't even hot outside, two of the light strips fell down over night. Trip to VatoZone is in order for today. Get some Right Stuff and a locking hitch pin or two.

 

[Anathollo]

Sometimes I think it's best to use a bolt and a nut instead of a trailer lock since the locking hinge pins are so easy to snap off (google youtube videos). But you should get some random bolt size like a 14mm or something

 

[Oswego]

As expected, and it wasn't even hot outside, two of the light strips fell down over night. Trip to VatoZone is in order for today. Get some Right Stuff and a locking hitch pin or two.

A Urethane similar to a seam sealer will hold those lights on until the metal rusts away.

Ive been having similar issues in my Subaru. Shits been falling out from under the dash for a year if not more. All the added electronics for my remote start and a few LED light strips I added need to be redone. Even the best 3m tape I had would not work due to the plastics surface. I even prepped it perfectly with a light sanding and cleaning with alcohol prep pads. Weird how I can get some stuff to stick forever and some never will. Think it comes down to chemical composition of the base materials. Ive got approval from one of the nations top engineering firms to hold hundreds of pounds of glass with the tape I used.... but thats with the right base materials.

 

[Silverback]

Might try to locate some of this stuff.

Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive 4-Ounce Tube (1451588): Pl Premium Construction Adhesive: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Oswego]

Might try to locate some of this stuff.

Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive 4-Ounce Tube (1451588): Pl Premium Construction Adhesive: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Check out the tech specs...I probably would not use it for that situation due to temp ratings and your location.
Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive Technical Data from Loctite Adhesives

long term temp ratings from 0*F to 160* F - short term up to 250* so may be ok.?.. I imagine that black trailer's going to be smoking hot in the sun.

Yea, I'm a tech sheet nerd when it comes to adhesives.... been looking at that crap my entire career for glass.

 

[Silverback]

Good catch! Yeah I bet the inside of that box will get hot!

 

[tx_shooter]

Glad somebody here knows a lot about that stuff. I used to use whatever was closest and worked as long as I was looking at it.

 

[Silverback]

I used whatever and usually had to redo it multiple times to find the "right stuff". Badumpbump!

I just order a pair of black nickle locking hitch pins with matching keys. More baby steps.

 

[Oswego]

I just sent my 3m rep a RFI. See if he responds in the next week or two . Dude takes his time.

 

[Oswego]

Glad somebody here knows a lot about that stuff. I used to use whatever was closest and worked as long as I was looking at it.

I recommended DOW795 structural silicone for over a decade...... now years later I find out the stuff I used it on is no longer adhering (my snorkel install). So even with good info and a decades worth of commercial use sometimes we fall short of the mark when using it in different applications. I can only assume the vibrations and extreme heat made it fail.

 

[Anathollo]

Started on the inbox lighting. Picked up these LED undermount lights that are angled and fit in the corner awsomely. I need to get some Right Stuff to adhere them to the box a little better. My guess is this double sided tape will fail the first time it gets hot. Also need to tie up the excess wire. Plan is for a switch that you control right near the opening. Not one that stays on despite the door being open.

6pcs LED Under Cabinet Lighting Kit, Extendable Under Counter LED Light Bar (5000K Daylight), Manual Switch, UL-listed Power Adapter for Gun Box, Safe, Locker, Closet, Shelf, Show Case Lighting - - Amazon.com


View attachment 5950

Bathroom silicon holds up really well. It's currently holding my rock light strips to the bottom of my truck.

 

[Anathollo]

Check out the tech specs...I probably would not use it for that situation due to temp ratings and your location.
Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive Technical Data from Loctite Adhesives

long term temp ratings from 0*F to 160* F - short term up to 250* so may be ok.?.. I imagine that black trailer's going to be smoking hot in the sun.

Yea, I'm a tech sheet nerd when it comes to adhesives.... been looking at that crap my entire career for glass.

Feel free to Geek out. I love learning about this stuff. Thanks for the info!

 

[Anathollo]

A Urethane similar to a seam sealer will hold those lights on until the metal rusts away.

Ive been having similar issues in my Subaru. Shits been falling out from under the dash for a year if not more. All the added electronics for my remote start and a few LED light strips I added need to be redone. Even the best 3m tape I had would not work due to the plastics surface. I even prepped it perfectly with a light sanding and cleaning with alcohol prep pads. Weird how I can get some stuff to stick forever and some never will. Think it comes down to chemical composition of the base materials. Ive got approval from one of the nations top engineering firms to hold hundreds of pounds of glass with the tape I used.... but thats with the right base materials.

I saw a trick awhile back with 3M automotive tape where you heat up the glue on with a Bic lighter first and then apply it. It's supposed to stick a lot better that way. Have you ever heard about that?

And my step-dad's best friend retired from 3M after 20-30 years as a chemical engineer for them. He used to send my step-dad boxes of sample stuff until he retired from 3M.

 

[tx_shooter]

I recommended DOW795 structural silicone for over a decade...... now years later I find out the stuff I used it on is no longer adhering (my snorkel install). So even with good info and a decades worth of commercial use sometimes we fall short of the mark when using it in different applications. I can only assume the vibrations and extreme heat made it fail.

If it lasted a decade I would not have any complaints.

 

[Silverback]

Well I bought two types today at VatoZone... some Right Stuff and some Permatex adhesive. One should work. Fingers crossed.

 

[tx_shooter]

Do a few with each one and get back to us with the results.

 

[Silverback]

The Permatex says I need to clamp it for an hour to get best results. Not sure how that is going to happen inside the trailer as there is nothing to clamp it to. My initial thought is the the lights weighs ounces, so clamping probably isn't required. If I can get it stuck to the box with the 3M tape and then use the adhesive around the edges it should be fine.