Walker Exhaust System Kit for 3rd Gen 4Runner

Discussion in 'Mechanical' started by tx_shooter, Jul 3, 2016.

  1. tx_shooter

    tx_shooter Looking for my missing spare time Staff Member

    The Walker exhaust system kit is a quiet replacement for a worn out or damaged factory muffler and tail pipe. I purchased the Walker kit from RockAuto.com for around $200 + s/h and had it had my house a few days later. This write up will cover removal of the old exhaust system and install of the new exhaust system. The entire removal and install was about 1 hour by myself once the old exhaust cooled off. I did get my needed tools laid out beside my 4Runner so that once I was working I did not have to get up again.

    Walker Kit 3330931

    Prep before Install

    Before install you will want to have 4 replacement bolts with washer, lock washers, and nuts. I purchased mine at Lowes and skipped the mark up of "automotive" bolts. I bought 3/8s bolts with matching hardware that were 1.5" long. These were plenty long enough for the install. I sprayed the exhaust bolts with penetrating fluid each day for three days prior to the exhaust install so as to make removal easier. WARNING - make sure you wait till the exhaust is cold before spraying the bolts as most penetrating fluid is flammable.

    I recommend you print out the parts image from either Walker's website or RockAuto to compare the gaskets to where the gaskets go between the parts. This made it easier for me than trying to remember one more thing during the install. Remove any plastic and paper labels from the exhaust as much as you can. Any material left will burn onto the surface of the pipe and muffler.


    - 14 mm socket/ wrenches for factory exhaust removal: I used an electric impact for removing the old bolts. I would recommend at least a 1/2" breaker bar for getting the old bolts out.

    - Sawsall w/ blade: this makes removing the tail pipe much easier than trying to work the bolts out from the top. You may be more patient than I am but I used the sawsall.

    - 9/16 socket/ wrenchs for bolts from Lowes: the bolts I picked up were 9/16; your bolts may be different so your needs may be different

    - antiseize for bolts: to be applied to new bolts so as to prevent complete seizing (if you care)

    - pocket knife: used for cutting the old hanger rubbers from the hangers; much easier than trying to force them off in a cramped area and cutting yourself up.

    - lubricating oil or spray: I used a teflon spray to make sliding the new exhaust hangers in place much easier


    1. The Walker Exhaust system shipped to me as two assmeblies with the shipping labels stuck to them and a small box with all the gasksts and hangers inside of it.

    2. Drop the spare tire. You do not have to move it away but just drop it do the ground so as to provide room to move around the tail pipe section.

    3. Cut the exhaust hanger for the tailpipe so as to let it be hang. This is where the pocket knife comes in handy to just cut the rubber to remove it.

    4. Use the sawzall to cut the tail pipe above the bolts. The easiest way to remove the tail pipe is out the back (which is why you dropped the exhuast pipe).

    5. Remove the two bolts holding the muffler to the rest of the exhaust. Watch for rust/junk falling out when you take the muffler loose. The exhaust can drop down a little at this point to watch your head.

    6. With the two bolts removed; now cut the two hangers for the mufflers. The muffler will either fall free or on you so plan accordingly. Go ahead and spray a little lubricant on the hangers.

    7. Put the two exhaust hangers (PN 35725) on the rods to hang the muffler. The lubricant will make this a little easier as well.

    8. Before mounting the muffler make sure the old gasket is removed and set the new gasket in place (PN 31384).

    9. Bolt the muffler flange into place. When mounting the muffler it is easier to mount the hangers and then start the bolts. Make sure to not tighten the bolts more than a little past finger tight yet.

    10. Mount the tail pipe insulator to the tail pipe and feed/twist/slide the tail pipe over the axle and into place. Once it is in place mount the insulator to the hanger.

    11. At the muffler/tail pipe connection make sure the gasket (PN 31384) is in place before connecting the two pipes.

    12. Now bolt the tail pipe to the muffler at the flange. Again tighten the bolts a little more than finger tight so as to allow you some play to ensure proper fit and there is no metal-to-metal contact.

    13. Tighten up the front muffler bolts. I alternated between between bolts so as to apply pressure equally. Once tightened all the way check for any metal-to-metal contact. Resist the urge to over tighten the bolts - ie when the flanges start to bend you are past done.

    14. Tighten up the tail pipe bolts again alternating back and forth so as to apply pressure equally. Once tightened all the way check for any metal-to-metal contact again.

    15. Raise the spare tire back into position. (I checked my spare tire pressure while I had it down.)

    16. Check for clearance between the spare and tail pipe to make sure the spare is not resting on the tail pipe. If the spare is resting against the tail pipe check to see if the spare was raised correctly. If it was then check the tail pipe to make sure it is hanging correctly on the insulator and mounting bracket.

    17. Final visual check of the muffler and tail pipe. Make sure it is hanging correctly at all three exhaust insulators. Check the bolts are tightened down all the way.

    18. Start the motor, leave it in park, and make sure the parking brake is on. Now check for exhaust leaks at the two joints. There are many methods to check for leaks; I went with the tried and true move-hand-around method. It is simple and works as long as you keep your hand at least a 1/2" away from the pipe.

    If there are leaks then tighten the bolts a little more, if no leaks move on to picking up your tools and going for a test drive. Once back from the test drive double check the bolts and exhaust insulators to make sure nothing shifted or backed off during the test drive. As the new exhaust system cools it will make pinging sounds and this is normal for new exhaust/motor parts after initial heat cycles. Rattling sounds are not normal and you should contact Walker about them.

    After 500 miles it is recommended to check the bolts again to ensure nothing has backed off. After that you are good to enjoy the sound of silence with the Walker exhaust.

    Update 10/2017: exhaust is still working as needed with no leaks or rattles.

    Now the pics click on the pic for the full size pic

    The Walker Exhaust as it arrived at my door.

    Old Exhaust

    Old tail pipe removed - I did not drop the spare tire until after cutting so I had to make an extra cut

    New Walker muffler in place

    New tail pipe in place

    Pics of the welds


    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017
  2. tex

    tex That's Mr Asshole to you

    Any more or less clearance with this muffler of the stock one?
  3. tx_shooter

    tx_shooter Looking for my missing spare time Staff Member

    I cannot compare it to the stock one as I did not have it; but this muffler does not hang down do be an issue off roading. I will post a pic of it.
  4. balakay

    balakay She ain't fat, bruh... She just a lil' thick.

    Right after that yellow sticker looks like a good place for a sawzall cut...
  5. tx_shooter

    tx_shooter Looking for my missing spare time Staff Member

    Nice and tight to the frame.

    Last edited: Jul 3, 2016
  6. Silverback

    Silverback I'm not always a dick. Just kidding, fuck off.

    agree 100%! [​IMG]
  7. tx_shooter

    tx_shooter Looking for my missing spare time Staff Member

    In a truck I would have no problem; not in my 4Runner.

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