Anathollo's build
- Thread starter Anathollo
- Start date
Rebuilt the front passenger side of my truck this past weekend. Replaced the LCA bushings, grinded off the rust on my Total Chaos LCA's and painted them. replaced the hat spindle seal, replaced the FK bearing in the TC lower uniball and replaced the wheel bearing.
I had to get on order a new set of wheelers superbumps since my passenger side just came off in my hand and I need to order a Camburg uniball spacer.
I am still debating on what to do with my secondary shocks at this point. I'm going to send them off to get rebuilt and see if the shocks can be modified to fit my truck better. But if they can't be modified then I'll sell them.
I'm also thinking of pulling my Icon coilovers, selling them and replacing them with King's as well as I'm not happy with them either (I've been thinking about doing this long before I posted that Filthy Motorsports video on King shocks). I might just send them off to get rebuilt, revalved and put some new coils on them though instead.
Old passenger side LCA bushings.
I had to get on order a new set of wheelers superbumps since my passenger side just came off in my hand and I need to order a Camburg uniball spacer.
I am still debating on what to do with my secondary shocks at this point. I'm going to send them off to get rebuilt and see if the shocks can be modified to fit my truck better. But if they can't be modified then I'll sell them.
I'm also thinking of pulling my Icon coilovers, selling them and replacing them with King's as well as I'm not happy with them either (I've been thinking about doing this long before I posted that Filthy Motorsports video on King shocks). I might just send them off to get rebuilt, revalved and put some new coils on them though instead.
Old passenger side LCA bushings.
I think my Icon's are valved too stiff. I also need to swap in a 14" or 16" 700# spring to reduce my pre-load on my coils. I need to call Downsouth motorsports and talk to them about rebuilding, re-valving and installing new coils on them for me. I'll weigh that cost against selling them and buying new King's.
As for the TC lower control arms, I believe it's a fitment issue with the TC lowers. It's a super tight fit installing them into the tabs. I've had to beat out my tabs a little every time to get them in there.
I was looking at the Camburg LCA's yesterday out of curiosity and to compare them to the TC stock lower control arms. Their mounting system sounds so much better than TC's.
"It has internal gusseting and pivots on FK 1″ uniballs at the frame rather than cheap rubber or polyurethane bushings that constantly bind and flex under braking. Uniballs allow for zero binding when the suspension cycles up and down and has zero flex under braking so your geometry and alignment is always consistent. With Toyota trucks being aligned by the lower arm, a uniball setup also allows for a bind free adjustment and you’re able to torque all the bolts without putting it into a bind. Since the uniball spacers are 1.50” in diameter, you have better clamping force in the frame mounts due to the increased surface area which keeps the holes from ovaling out over time unlike a small diameter sleeve used in a bushing. This also keeps the alignment cams from loosening up from off-road use."
Camburg Toyota Tacoma Pre/4wd ’05-15 Performance Lower Arm Kit | Camburg Engineering
Which to me sounds like a much better design than the TC lowers. The only thing I don't like about them is they don't have a 1/4" bash plate on the bottom of the arms like my TC lowers have. I definitely want that bash plate after seeing how much abuse my lower control arms take.
@Silverback What do you think?
Yeah the Camburg setup will probably be a rougher ride because all the vibrations are transferred through those bearings rather than being dampened by the Poly bushings.
Oswego
n00b
My only hesitation besides the 5k I spent on a new front end already would be the worthiness of those uni-balls in that location in my location (salt belt) 
No way to lube them that I know of besides squiring lube into them and with them being horizontal that makes me cringe because none f the dry or wet lube will seep into/past the teflon seals. For a one off race or desert use it's a no brain'er. For locations like mine on a DD truck - it makes me weary until I know more.
Do yours have zerks?
No way to lube them that I know of besides squiring lube into them and with them being horizontal that makes me cringe because none f the dry or wet lube will seep into/past the teflon seals. For a one off race or desert use it's a no brain'er. For locations like mine on a DD truck - it makes me weary until I know more.
Do yours have zerks?
Yeah mine has zerks.My only hesitation besides the 5k I spent on a new front end already would be the worthiness of those uni-balls in that location in my location (salt belt)
No way to lube them that I know of besides squiring lube into them and with them being horizontal that makes me cringe because none f the dry or wet lube will seep into/past the teflon seals. For a one off race or desert use it's a no brain'er. For locations like mine on a DD truck - it makes me weary until I know more.
Do yours have zerks?
Yeah I just saw that on Instagram
So this has been my life for the past week. I had a bad leak that was coming in from the fresh air inlet underneath the cowl. It was leaking through that onto the cabin air filter then through the fan and onto the floor where it would puddle up.
The fan does a really good job drying it out. I'll leave it on overnight and put it away in the morning. Takes a couple of days but it gets the job done.
So I pulled off the windshield wipers to remove the cowl and this is what I found! Can't believe the wipers worked with all that junk in there.
This rock was perfectly fit into the drain hole on the driver-side drain hole.
Glued this guy back into place.
And I just used a scrap 2"x6" galvanized stud that I cut down and glued/screwed into place to drain off any water that could come into the air inlet. This was a quick and dirty job as I needed to get my truck back on the road for work in the morning. It's also covered up so you can't see it anyways. If I had more time, I would've liked to have everything dry overnight and the next day before reinstalling but that wasn't an option at this point. There was an 80% chance of rain the next day (which has now changed to 30% FML).
At this point, I re-siliconed a bunch of rubber trim back onto the cowl and then reinstalled it. I probably need to order a whole new cowl assembly because 12 years of sun and use/abuse has taken it's toll on the rubber trim and the actual fitment of the cowl. Apparently there's a replacement TSB from Toyota on replacing these cowls because it's a known design failure...
The fan does a really good job drying it out. I'll leave it on overnight and put it away in the morning. Takes a couple of days but it gets the job done.
So I pulled off the windshield wipers to remove the cowl and this is what I found! Can't believe the wipers worked with all that junk in there.
This rock was perfectly fit into the drain hole on the driver-side drain hole.
Glued this guy back into place.
And I just used a scrap 2"x6" galvanized stud that I cut down and glued/screwed into place to drain off any water that could come into the air inlet. This was a quick and dirty job as I needed to get my truck back on the road for work in the morning. It's also covered up so you can't see it anyways. If I had more time, I would've liked to have everything dry overnight and the next day before reinstalling but that wasn't an option at this point. There was an 80% chance of rain the next day (which has now changed to 30% FML
).At this point, I re-siliconed a bunch of rubber trim back onto the cowl and then reinstalled it. I probably need to order a whole new cowl assembly because 12 years of sun and use/abuse has taken it's toll on the rubber trim and the actual fitment of the cowl. Apparently there's a replacement TSB from Toyota on replacing these cowls because it's a known design failure...
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Hmm. Interesting. I may just take mine off to see how it looks under there. Also a really good time to use some back to black on that mother (see what I did there).
Don't tell me that!Good luck man! I did similar last year + mouse proofed the opening due to a nest then my DS started leaking when I was done
Yeah that might be it. I'm still waiting for it to rain hard to see if I actually fixed my problem. Or...I'll just simulate rain with a garden hose.I did spin the truck around, so maybe thats it.? Was parked facing South for 3 years then I cleaned it and turned it to facing North when I swapped the engine last summer
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Dumb question... but you didn't seal off that air inlet did you? How much space did you leave above the opening? Just a 1/4" or so on the backside where it meets the firewall?
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Sorry ,just saw this. yeah I'd want the bash plate as well. Chances of me using it any more are pretty slim but its nice to know its there. Overall I've been very happy with my TC gear.
Not a dumb question since you can't see the side. It's probably ~3+" of clearance at least. It's got plenty of clearance and slopes down from the top of the windshield to the bottom.
This is a really great pic of what I did. These pics are from tmj41765 over on Tardworld.
And I put two washers on the bottom of mine as well.