Dark Knight.
- Thread starter Dark Knight
- Start date
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
Hmmm now thats an idea! 60 would be a boat anchor on 35's!!??
and WOW fuck me those spidertrax unit bearings set for 6x5.5 are expensive. 499 per side. Or, send to currie.....
Keep in mind I'm probably never going to get into crazy wheeling with this long bastard.
and WOW fuck me those spidertrax unit bearings set for 6x5.5 are expensive. 499 per side. Or, send to currie.....
Keep in mind I'm probably never going to get into crazy wheeling with this long bastard.
Lrgrnr
Well-Known Member
Simple fix.........run 37's
......in the thread it say Currie will drill them for $50 a side.....a local machine shop could probably do the same.Look at shave kits.
Or if you have the cash get a Rock Jock or Dynatrac.
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
this always seems like such a good idea until you start getting down to brass tacks. The whole thought came back to mind as FOX is being VERRRRRY slow getting me the mini heims to rebuild the coilovers...
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
You're not going to put the old school chevy flat tops on one of the newer rubi 44s, totally different design, you're also gonna be stuck with the 5 lug pattern unless you custom drill the unit bearings for a new lug pattern, if you're going to build up a 44 get one of the old F250 ones, best bang for the buck high pinion and beefy axle tubes, and parts available at pretty much every parts store in existence.
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Yea the JK rubicons have larger R&P than the standard 44s as well as bigger outers similar to what you would find in the later model 1/2 ton solid axle dodges
The old TJ 44s were like that the new stuff in the JK was totally redesigned much beefier than the older rubicon axles
Unit bearings blow donkey balls I will never have another wheeler that uses non serviceable bearings in the hubs.
And then half way through the process of swapping it you realize your months behind schedule and thousands over budget
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
The budget ... didn't really set one for myself. I know no matter what it will be expensive whichever direction it goes. I want to gate an axle built the way I want it and then knock it all out in a 2-3 week period in the shop at work. All easier said than done. Just to put together an axle is going to take a good amount of time. $$
I have lots more reading to do before anything happens. Need to make sure what ever axle I do go with will be the right choice for my project.
I have lots more reading to do before anything happens. Need to make sure what ever axle I do go with will be the right choice for my project.
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
so putting abs aside, doesn't a 78-79 f250 HP D44 Have 1/2" thick axle tubes that are 3" in diameter? Also matches the width of the of 05+ factory taco rear axle? I can get good prices on internals so its not a thing of making that axle (D44) strong (in a sense of 35" tires and my driving needs).
The JK Rubi HP44 would be tits except for the damn 5on5 lug pattern.
Thinking of a y-link steering setup with highsteer if the 44. any advantage to highsteer vs. not with either the 44 or 60?
In any case the goal is 35's, 4,88's, 22"-23"+/- frame height. Current frame height at the pesky body mount at the back of the wheel well is 17". Goal completely out of line?
The JK Rubi HP44 would be tits except for the damn 5on5 lug pattern.
Thinking of a y-link steering setup with highsteer if the 44. any advantage to highsteer vs. not with either the 44 or 60?
In any case the goal is 35's, 4,88's, 22"-23"+/- frame height. Current frame height at the pesky body mount at the back of the wheel well is 17". Goal completely out of line?
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
Coils and 3-link would be my first choice. By the time I get around to doing all of this my mind could change 50 times. Leafs seem so much easier but also kinda blow my frame height goal i think...
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Yea your gonna have to link it to get that low. As for steering i would run crossover steering no high steer. High steer is cool and all but your not really gonna be hitting the tie rod much with it in the standard nut down position. The f250 44 is a perfect match width wise and is tge beefiest of the old school 44s you can get high pinion 3" axle tubes 1/2" wall if you left the front diff open i think you could get away with stock shafts/joints for a long time
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
in the 44 I was thinking 4340 inners (ford of course), 4340 chebby outters. 4.88's on a true trac or with a spartan. Warn manual hubs. Damn super joints are expensive, they are more then the axles!
So are you saying it is worthless to spend the extra money on milling and tapping the chevy knuckle to mount high steer arms, just use it as is with beefed tierod and draglink?
So are you saying it is worthless to spend the extra money on milling and tapping the chevy knuckle to mount high steer arms, just use it as is with beefed tierod and draglink?
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Youll still need the passenger side milled and drilled to run crossover steering i suppose if you linked it you could run the tierod and draglink off the knuckle but the draglink would be pretty steep bearing in mind that a linked suspension needs to have the draglink and panhard parallel to eachother
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
right ok. Crossover y-link. I believe I would be able to make that work well either leaf or linked. The vehicle needs to go 75-80mph without issue.
05tacoSPORT
Well-Known Member
This should be sweet. I cant help much but i will be watching
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
No need to be too attentitive, this is going to take a LONG time.
L
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Time.
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Time.
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
with the subtraction of the ADD system. Wonder how the wiring would have to be so the electronic case would still shift?
ultimate solution, get the FJ case that I want anyhow....
ultimate solution, get the FJ case that I want anyhow....
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Easiest way is to keep the add actuator and just mount it somewhere out of the way
Dark Knight
Well-Known Member
That makes the best sense...
Aren't you building the same kind of thing Randy?
Aren't you building the same kind of thing Randy?