New Idea for LT

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
What if I cut 8" off the ADD tube, moved the whole diff aseembly closer to the middle, then installed LT CVs that were 4" longer?

I think that would give me enough range of motion to get LT numbers without the track width and less (qty) expensive parts. I would have to get a custom ADD shaft though. It might be easier to dump ADD all together and get super long custom CVs and center the diff, lol.

I could probably afford to sacrifice a little travel at that point to lift the diff up so the bottom doesn't stick out under the Drop Bracket.
 

06HAOLE

Well-Known Member
The issues that arise with that are wandering and steering bind. If it was just for dirt it wouldnt be as big of a deal but it would be sketchy on the road. I saw a new 9" IFS center section in a magazine today that would let you start with that and build a suspension around it. Its super narrow so you would almost have center mount IFS.
 

AlienXtx

Nignog
That might work, how brave are you?
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
I'd love to see it! Maybe you could get a spot at SEMA next to that fully independent taco they had! :)
 

TubbsIsland

Cuz Stock Sucks
The issues that arise with that are wandering and steering bind. If it was just for dirt it wouldnt be as big of a deal but it would be sketchy on the road. I saw a new 9" IFS center section in a magazine today that would let you start with that and build a suspension around it. Its super narrow so you would almost have center mount IFS.

images-2.jpg
 

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
That might work, how brave are you?
Um VERY
...Of course they are 100% custom so its not going to be cheap.
I think I could get away with about 50% custom. The Control Arms and spindle would stay the same.
Pure beef
The issues that arise with that are wandering and steering bind...
I don't understand why these would be a problem if the control arms remain unchanged and I have an open diff when on the road.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Just SAS it and save the $$ for other mods.
 

06HAOLE

Well-Known Member
U

I don't understand why these would be a problem if the control arms remain unchanged and I have an open diff when on the road.

The control arms both upper and lower are designed with the CVs in mind. Its not as simple as it seems. The control arm pivots need to be at the same point of the CV joints or moved to let the CVs go up and down freely without hitting the control arms. Look at any LT kit or Class 1/KOH IFS suspension. Look at the relationship between the CVs and the upper/lower UCAs.

The endstate is: You may be able to have this work on dirt but your not going to be able to make it handle like anything safe unless you design the entire suspension around it. Drew, just buy an LT kit and save yourself the trouble and expense of these ideas. These companies each spent 10-20k on R&D. Thats the kind of money that goes into designing and testing these in order to allow you to get the performance and drive it on the street. For what you want to do it seems like a straight axle is a more logical choice. Your short wheelbase allows you to get into places that a double cab Taco can only dream of. LT would negate some of that advantage you have as you sacrifice width to get more travel..


Edit: I agree with Sean.
 

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
None of the suspension components that affect handling or steering will change at all. I wouldn't have to touch the control arms, spindles, steering, or anything in the hubs. So street performance will stay the same. So will my track width.

I realize that the CV shaft will hit the LCA if it drops too far, but I think I can still get WAY more drop that what I have now. Definitely more stuff.

The cost will be 2 custom length shafts to replace the ones already in the CVs I got from RCV + A new front Drive Shaft. I can fabricate all the other pieces needed to mount the diff in a new location. I'll be the whole thing costs < $1500 depending on what coil-overs I get. I don't think I'll need anything ridiculously expensive though since this isn't gonna be a desert rig.
 

AlienXtx

Nignog
It's not going to be a desert rig?......lol
 

06HAOLE

Well-Known Member
None of the suspension components that affect handling or steering will change at all. I wouldn't have to touch the control arms, spindles, steering, or anything in the hubs. So street performance will stay the same. So will my track width.

I realize that the CV shaft will hit the LCA if it drops too far, but I think I can still get WAY more drop that what I have now. Definitely more stuff.

The cost will be 2 custom length shafts to replace the ones already in the CVs I got from RCV + A new front Drive Shaft. I can fabricate all the other pieces needed to mount the diff in a new location. I'll be the whole thing costs < $1500 depending on what coil-overs I get. I don't think I'll need anything ridiculously expensive though since this isn't gonna be a desert rig.

I think that you will have to strap it to keep the CVs from hitting the arms thus limiting your travel and kind of killing the concept. The only way to figure out the steering is to mock it up.

Its only money. Go for it.
 
Last edited:

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
Dude, I'm telling you the steering won't have to change at all.

Strapping will definitely be required.

What if I built longer LCAs out of Square tubing then modified my Drop bracket to mount them in close to the diff? Think I could keep the stock UCA? The ones I have are Adjustable, so I might be able to use them for setting caster/ camber. Would probably be a PITA though.
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
If anyone makes ADD scrap, let me know - I think it could be a good start to in-cab sway bar disconnect project!!!
 
Top