What have you done to your ride lately?

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
Lets see...

I cut off my stack.. I rewelded on a rear passenger shock tower.. I washed the mud off it (after finding a broken shock tower I figured I needed to be able to see better).. then I loaded it up
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and

exploded a hub
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destroyed a fender
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peeled back the A-pillar a bit
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Nice efforts!!! :D What did the rest of the hub look like?
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
After fretting about getting pulled over by a couple of cops that noticed my brake light out, I changed both of them.
 

AlienXtx

Nignog
Bingo! Its all about how slick it travels through the onrushing air. Today I changed the plugs and rotated the tars, I wonder if this could be helpful in any way?

can you run th a/c now? lol
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Hey Sean it looks like the Raisin is on your trailer. Did you get it finished?

I did.. I need to get a new axle though, one is bent. I'll probably put brakes on the new axle as well. I also need to get a spare tire.. I actually think I'm gonng get two. And finally, the Raisin is a little wide to fit so I am planning to weld some 2x2x1/8" angle to the outer frame as an area to rest the tires on and also have it go up and over the fenders to stiffen them up a bit. But it towed great, probably because its so small and lightweight.

Nice efforts!!! :D What did the rest of the hub look like?

It looks like a hub.. its actually in decent shape. It just sheered off all the studs and launched the thing 10-12 feet or so. It did mess up the area where the two pins mount though, it deformed the housing a bit. You can see it in the picture in the 9 and 3 o'clock position. But its not cracked or broken.. at least it doesn't appear to be.
df1d9a1b.jpg


But I was reading about how to fix and what parts I would need. Seems that with chromo axles and outer ring gears that the next thing to fail is the hub studs. TG sells a kit that uses ARP studs. I will be ordering that. http://www.trail-gear.com/hubs-and-drive-flanges

Now do I want drive flanges or go back to hubs?
 
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TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
It looks like a hub.. its actually in decent shape. It just sheered off all the studs and launched the thing 10-12 feet or so. It did mess up the area where the two pins mount though, it deformed the housing a bit. You can see it in the picture in the 9 and 3 o'clock position. But its not cracked or broken.. at least it doesn't appear to be.
df1d9a1b.jpg


But I was reading about how to fix and what parts I would need. Seems that with chromo axles and outer ring gears that the next thing to fail is the hub studs. TG sells a kit that uses ARP studs. I will be ordering that. http://www.trail-gear.com/hubs-and-drive-flanges

Now do I want drive flanges or go back to hubs?

Ouch! I have read of this happening! As long as you are trailering, maybe the flanges are the best option.
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
Yes, has chromo hub gears

Well I still say get flanges, there is no need to unlock the hubs on that thing anyways since it's a trailer queen. Only reason I can thing of to keep hubs is if you bust a R&P on the front end and need to drive it some lengthy distance to the trailer or you toast off a birf and need to drive it a lengthy distance.
 

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
Well I still say get flanges, there is no need to unlock the hubs on that thing anyways since it's a trailer queen. Only reason I can thing of to keep hubs is if you bust a R&P on the front end and need to drive it some lengthy distance to the trailer or you toast off a birf and need to drive it a lengthy distance.

Even if that does happen, unbolting the damn flange isn't really that hard.

I have some (5) extra cone washers if you need them Sean
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
Barry clapping to some of the Karen Carpenter albums he listens to:

obama_applause.gif
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Well I still say get flanges, there is no need to unlock the hubs on that thing anyways since it's a trailer queen. Only reason I can thing of to keep hubs is if you bust a R&P on the front end and need to drive it some lengthy distance to the trailer or you toast off a birf and need to drive it a lengthy distance.

True.. the only time I disconnect them now is to make it easier to line up when I drive it into and out of the garage.

Even if that does happen, unbolting the damn flange isn't really that hard.

I have some (5) extra cone washers if you need them Sean

Thanks Drew.

I'll be looking into flanges.
 

drew02a

Moderator
Staff member
I was pulling in to a gas station at about 11:00 this morning, and the 4Runner suddenly shut off electronics and all. I coased in and a little white smoke came out from under the hood. Somehow I melted a ground wire :confused: Must have something to do with my new rear fusebox

IMG_20110614_110218.jpg


I disconnected the rear fuse box and replace the ground wire, but the damn thing still wouldn't start. Took WAY to long to figure out that the battery terminals were too corroded even though they worked fine this morning. New Hot and ground terminals and new ground wire, and I'm finally back in business.
 

garzanium

Well-Known Member
Drained the radiator from my 83 today, first pic.then I changed the rear diff oil.discovered (after draining it ) that the front diff fill bolt head was striped and the previous owner welded it to the diff. How east is it to drill and tap a new filler plug hole on a diff?
IMAG0181.jpg


IMAG0183.jpg
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
Drained the radiator from my 83 today, first pic.then I changed the rear diff oil.discovered (after draining it ) that the front diff fill bolt head was striped and the previous owner welded it to the diff. How east is it to drill and tap a new filler plug hole on a diff?
IMAG0181.jpg


IMAG0183.jpg



Just a thought, if he just welded it shut and didn't penetrate to the thread in the cast iron, you may be lucky and be able to grind off the welds, drill into the center of the plug and use an 'easy-out' to get the plug out. Pictures would help! Best of luck on that. on the other side of that, it may be easier to just weld it up and use a vacuum pump to drain the fluid from the fill plug... just my dos pesos! :D
 

yotarob

Kiss My IFS
Just a thought, if he just welded it shut and didn't penetrate to the thread in the cast iron, you may be lucky and be able to grind off the welds, drill into the center of the plug and use an 'easy-out' to get the plug out. Pictures would help! Best of luck on that. on the other side of that, it may be easier to just weld it up and use a vacuum pump to drain the fluid from the fill plug... just my dos pesos! :D

Grind out the welds, then weld another nut to it and use a big wrench
 

AlienXtx

Nignog
Grind out the welds, then weld another nut to it and use a big wrench

This ^ then go find the guy who did that and kick him in the nuts.
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
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