Exactly what I did last nightDude. I do things in small portions.. today I cleaned part of the garage and then raised the RTT a few notches.. I'll do more tomorrow. TNIM has been over for a month or so, nothing to see there. Waiting on some trailer parts to arrive on Thursday.
So, I torqued my crank bolt to 150-160 vs 185 or 218 I found as a torque spec. I did that since, although the threads were clean and dry, the face of the washer and the bolt to washer surface was wet with RTV. Any different opinions? I would hate to crack a crank!
With my experience as an aviation mechanic, 5% plus or minus on the suggested Tq values was the only acceptable deviation per SR. QC inspectors. The RTV needs to set for 1 hour, then TQ.
I have lost one bolt before, I always found that odd as well.
I would suggest try using moly spray dry film lubricant, 2 coats and cover the threads on the second coat.
I had some help from Nathan and got my B&W gooseneck hitch installed in the tow pig. Guess I have to start shopping for a new trailer.
I had some help from Nathan and got my B&W gooseneck hitch installed in the tow pig. Guess I have to start shopping for a new trailer.
Took me a sec but I got it... morning coffee is kicking inThey didn't offer it in colors?
In terms of corrosion resistance, sealing the threads from foreign matter (salt) & not messing with tq values what are your thoughts on ARP's assembly lube? I'm trying to find an anti seize that is metal free for long term protection of bolts/nuts that aren't messed with very often. To date Ive been using blue loctite with mixed results. When all the threads of both surfaces are completely coated it works great, but that requires a bath of it and still isn't 100%. Gaps let the air in thus corrosion.
On another note anyone ever notice that the LCA shock bolt on the 05+ Tacomas shoulder length is what I would consider to be short? It doesn't allow the distribution of equal force on the misalignment spacer/bearing and I can't figure out why.
Ive had one seize on me after sitting for 3+ years and I know it's a common problem. I also know breaking misalignment spacers can be an issue with hard hits.
After sitting both of mine were seized to the misalignment spacers. One misalignment spacer was sheared and that came came out with a few BFH hits. The other had to be cut out. I'd like to figure out why the shoulder length is short and if getting a bolt with a different shoulder length in stainless would be better.
10-4.
I'm at a loss...is it for corrosion? Because only half hits anything there may be less corrosion? But then you blow out bearings and misalignment spacers instead.?. IDK... Ill keep looking, but already spent hrs looking online with no one ever noticing or bringing it up. Ive got to imagine some LT guys have had similar issues blowing out spacers/bearings from hard hits.....yet all the 4x shops sell the same bolt I got from Yota and they all have short shoulders.
Years ago when we used to rebuild motor's, we would coat the inside of the block with stuff that was used to seal windings of electrical motor's. The concept then was to help the oil flow off the block - to pickup less heat and to not bake on to the block. That might be good.@TacoXpo any recommendations from the left coast? See above - you ever notice this goofy bolt or hear of any talk concerning it? I'm still a few weeks away from install, but want to get my ducks in a row now. Some guy was telling me setting goals was a good idea
Is it sold yet?