'02 Crew Cab F-350 Tow Pig Overhual/Build

[PSU Taco85]

Wow 15-17 seems low...my 5.9 would hit 31 stock and 37 with the tuner. The new 6.7 I think I've seen around 35 stock.

That's what I thought too, but that's all I could get out of it when I first bought it. I did some googling and it seems about right though. Anything the MAP sensor sees above 25 psi it cuts out the fuel so 25 psi is the max ford designed it to see off the showroom. The wastegate I have now is adjusted via a locknut and spring so it's much easier to dial in the max boost I can get, plus I put a boost fooler to relieve anything over 25psi to the MAP sensor. Once the clutch is broken in and I can womp on it a bit more I'll do some testing and see where it's at. The 7.3 redlines at 3500 rpm so seems like as soon as I get up high enough in boost it's time to shift again

 

[achirdo]

That's what I thought too, but that's all I could get out of it when I first bought it. I did some googling and it seems about right though. Anything the MAP sensor sees above 25 psi it cuts out the fuel so 25 psi is the max ford designed it to see off the showroom. The wastegate I have now is adjusted via a locknut and spring so it's much easier to dial in the max boost I can get, plus I put a boost fooler to relieve anything over 25psi to the MAP sensor. Once the clutch is broken in and I can womp on it a bit more I'll do some testing and see where it's at. The 7.3 redlines at 3500 rpm so seems like as soon as I get up high enough in boost it's time to shift again

Higher than either of my Cummins motors. 3k and they are topped out

 

[PSU Taco85]

Higher than either of my Cummins motors. 3k and they are topped out

hmm, I always thought cummins engine revved up a bit higher, perhaps I just suck at shifting haha, I was used to the old clutch it was so worn in you barely noticed the gear change.

 

[achirdo]

Nah I think the Fords Rev higher. If I'm not mistaken my buddies 6.no tops out at 3.5 or 4k

hmm, I always thought cummins engine revved up a bit higher, perhaps I just suck at shifting haha, I was used to the old clutch it was so worn in you barely noticed the gear change.

 

[HomerTaco]

Finally took the time to get caught up with this... trying to pull that motor out and get it back in was quite the adventure! I’m glad I was able to lend a hand.

Time to start making sparks on the T4R!

 

[PSU Taco85]

Nah I think the Fords Rev higher. If I'm not mistaken my buddies 6.no tops out at 3.5 or 4k

You're correct, I rose in my buddies dodge with the 6.7 and it's lower for sure.

Finally took the time to get caught up with this... trying to pull that motor out and get it back in was quite the adventure! I’m glad I was able to lend a hand.

Time to start making sparks on the T4R!

That was a fun time, thanks for your help. Glad it is behind us though

Tonight I removed the skid plate and front driveshaft to replace the ujoints. One of them had a busted cap I noticed when re-assembling last month after I reinstalled the drivetrain. Front is 1350 u-joints with a double cardan at the transfer case end.

Busted cap, no needle bearings left in this one

The CV centering ball was also beat up pretty bad, likely the original one.

The seal was all but gone except for the metal ring on the ball stud yoke, likely why the CV ball is in such crap shape

The spicer P/N is stamped on the flange, so it was easy enough to source a new one

A new centering ball rebuild kit would have been $30 and I would have had to dick with removing the old CV ball which is pressed in and a pain in the ass. The flange with a new CV ball and spring already installed was only $60 so I opted to just get the whole flange, along with a new seal. Once that comes in I'll press in the new u-joints and re-install.

Next on the list will be sending the instrument cluster out for a rebuild, along with the temperature/compass in the overhead. The compass never worked and the radio/windows are intermittent which from my reading is due to a "battery saver" relay that's soldered on the instrument panel circuit board. I also ordered an oil bypass filter kit today that should be in next week.

 

[PSU Taco85]

Parts came in yesterday afternoon, had a chance tonight to get things back together

New and old flange, with old seal or what was left of it for the CV ball. The new flange came with the CV ball pressed in already and a new spring as well. The aluminium on the right is a tool for driving the seal on the driveshaft.

Cleaned up the seal surface

The tool made installing new seal real easy, couple hits with a hammer and it was seated

Differential end was simple to do

This was the first time I rebuilt a double cardan, man it was a pain in the ass. The first u-joint wasn't too bad to do but the second one was a royal pain in the ass

Basically you have to hold the yoke in place where the centering ball is while pressing in the caps, all while not allowing it to move too much or else one of two things happens. The CV ball pops off the stub or the little needs bearings get buggered up in the caps and you have to start over. Both of these happened to me so now I know a little easier how to handle it, would have been nice to have a second person to hold things steady but I got it done. The first time I did the joint I had the zerk facing the wrong way and had to press it out and redo it, that sucked. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have gotten the zerks on the end of the caps instead of on the cross, would have made install easier and getting a grease gun in there once they are installed easier as well.

I ended up fucking up two caps when doing the double cardan end due to pressing them in with the needles misaligned so it broke some of the needle bearings. I'll have to get another u-joint tomorrow and steal 2 caps off of it, and keep the other as a spare in the glovebox.

 

[tx_shooter]

At least I am not the only one that has had to replace u joints due to the damn needle bearings getting out of place. You are going to have the best truck on the coast by the time you are done.

 

[PSU Taco85]

Haven't really been using the truck much lately, been tied up on other house projects and still adjusting to the new job. Had it parked outside this weekend since I had a few friends over to do some projects in the shop. It got real cold and we got close to 5" of snow. Went to cold start it just to see how well it does now that the glow plugs, batteries, and valve cover harnesses are new. I was very happy with the results

It was sitting for a day in 29* weather without the heater plugged in. Last year it had trouble starting even in weather below 45*, had to crank for a while and white smoke would come bellowing out . This was starting after cycling the glow plugs twice.

 

[achirdo]

Haven't really been using the truck much lately, been tied up on other house projects and still adjusting to the new job. Had it parked outside this weekend since I had a few friends over to do some projects in the shop. It got real cold and we got close to 5" of snow. Went to cold start it just to see how well it does now that the glow plugs, batteries, and valve cover harnesses are new. I was very happy with the results

It was sitting for a day in 29* weather without the heater plugged in. Last year it had trouble starting even in weather below 45*, had to crank for a while and white smoke would come bellowing out . This was starting after cycling the glow plugs twice.

What was the cure for the white smoke? Buddy of mine has a first gen platinum with a 7.3 that white smokes for a couple minutes after startup. When cold. It's a ton of money white smoke.

 

[AlienXtx]

Man nothing sounds like that 7.3, good job on the truck man.

 

[AlienXtx]

Nah I think the Fords Rev higher. If I'm not mistaken my buddies 6.no tops out at 3.5 or 4k

blurry pic, but my 6.7 tops at 4k

 

[PSU Taco85]

What was the cure for the white smoke? Buddy of mine has a first gen platinum with a 7.3 that white smokes for a couple minutes after startup. When cold. It's a ton of money white smoke.

For me, it was white smoke at startup only when cold. Reading online it was either the injector(s) and/or the glow plugs. Seems like the glow plugs did the trick but with 255k on the clock here I'm sure I'm due for new injectors soon anyhow. Plans for the spring are a new HPOP, new HPOP lines, and performance injectors. Once that's done that's pretty much everything I had planned on doing to the truck (so I say now ). Aside from stiffer valve springs and pushrods I don't really want to push the engine much further, as I'm sure once I go down that rabbit hole it'll turn more into a race truck than a damn tow pig

Man nothing sounds like that 7.3, good job on the truck man.

Thanks, I'm really happy with how it turned out and how she's running now.

 

[tx_shooter]

Every time I see one of these 7.3 beasts I wish I had bought my Dad's Powerstroke when he sold it. It some a few issues but a 4x4, 4 door, short bed is a heck of a setup.

But then I would have not bought my Tacoma and ended up here.



On a gov watch list.

 

[PSU Taco85]

Not much has happened to the tow pig lately. I changed out the coolant filter and side stream micron oil filter the other weekend. My radio and power windows have been giving me trouble since I bought the truck. My internet research and schematic verification shows me that the "power saving" circuit is going that is built into the instrument cluster, a known problem on these trucks. My overhead compass/temp/miles to empty meter has never worked since i bought the truck either so I decided to finally get these items squared away

Pulled the dash apart and removed the speedo and overhead console, going to ship out to circuitboardmedics tomorrow and have them rebuild them. The mileage in these trucks is stored in the cluster so they need to rebuild this one vs. a swap out, otherwise the mileage wouldn't line up (although maybe a good plan if I want to scam a future buyer of my truck )

 

[AlienXtx]

What's the cost of them doing a rebuild? I usually just buy a new one from the dealership and have them program the correct mileage in for me when they go out in my buses.

 

[PSU Taco85]

What's the cost of them doing a rebuild? I usually just buy a new one from the dealership and have them program the correct mileage in for me when they go out in my buses.

the rebuild is $170, I think for one from the dealer it’s closer to $4-500, at least what I’ve read.

 

[AlienXtx]

I can't remember, but I'll make note of it. It's been several years since I've had to have one done. I had issues on my 07 E-450s.

 

[PSU Taco85]

I can't remember, but I'll make note of it. It's been several years since I've had to have one done. I had issues on my 07 E-450s.

Gotcha. This is the link to where I'm getting mine done

2002 - 2004 Ford Super Duty Instrument Cluster Repair

Ford Overhead Console Display Repair

 

[Oswego]

Always nice to see niche companies that fix products for the public, especially when they are in the US like that one is.