Anathollo's build

[tex]

Finally washed the exterior of my Tacoma and wife's car after a year of neglecting them. Also realized that my detailing items were either getting old or completely out so I ordered a bunch of stuff. I need to clay bar my wife's car and...repaint my whole truck

If you want to step up your car wash game check out the stuff from Adam's. Great results and easy to use.

Adam's Polishes | Premium Car Care Supplies

 

[Anathollo]

If you want to step up your car wash game check out the stuff from Adam's. Great results and easy to use.

Adam's Polishes | Premium Car Care Supplies

Yeah them, car guys and chemical guys make some good stuff. I ended up going with the car guys liquid wax because you have to reapply it less often and I'm lazy now when it comes to washing cars

 

[Anathollo]

Tore the driver side of my truck apart in s couple of hours today. I'm going to replace the hub, all seals, swap out of the needle bearing in the front diff, drain & refill front diff fluid, rebuild my CV axle, clean off rust and repaint anything as needed, replace all bushings and reinstall everything.

Issues that I found: LCA bushing on one side was shot, my Crown brake lines protective cover is peeling off and my secondary shock is blown (I think) and the SDHQ boot was dry rotted (whereas my other three OEM boots are perfectly fine).

Cracked Crown brake line.

 

[Oswego]

That sucks. Now that they have all been around for a while I haven't heard any good long term news about any of the aftermarket boots.

 

[Anathollo]

That sucks. Now that they have all been around for a while I haven't heard any good long term news about any of the aftermarket boots.

So right about the same time SDHQ came out with their "fix" boot, I needed to replace mine so I "hell yeah!" and bought it. So fast forward teo years and I'm doing research before I bought another SDHQ "fix" boot and lo & behold a lot of guys who bought theirs around the same time are having the same issue.

 

[Anathollo]

This is the outer CV axle seal that fits into the seal on the spindle. It took me a lot of research to get this part #.

 

[Silverback]

Tore the driver side of my truck apart in s couple of hours today. I'm going to replace the hub, all seals, swap out of the needle bearing in the front diff, drain & refill front diff fluid, rebuild my CV axle, clean off rust and repaint anything as needed, replace all bushings and reinstall everything.

Issues that I found: LCA bushing on one side was shot, my Crown brake lines protective cover is peeling off and my secondary shock is blown (I think) and the SDHQ boot was dry rotted (whereas my other three OEM boots are perfectly fine).

Cracked Crown brake line.
View attachment 14439

The outer casing on my Crown lines cracked as well, but they did not leak. I ordered new ones, but me being so "on top of shit" still has them in the box.

 

[Anathollo]

Ended up not getting as much done to the truck as I wanted to today. My kiddo decided not to sleep last night and kept us up late so I didn't even get started until 4PM today when she finally decided to sleep.

But I still got quite a bit done regardless.

One of the poly bushings was knackered and the other one was wallered out.

Gotta love that Total Chaos powdercoat job! /s. Glad I paid that much for this product to rust by itself...

The TC emblem is a great place for water to collect and rust your lower control arms! Great idea...

And when I received this uniball housing, the coating on it at the time looked like it didn't need to be painted or anything so I just installed it as is. It's great to find out a couple of years later that you should've painted it. EDIT: I re-read the directions and it's in there that the finish is black oxide and you should paint it if you live in extreme elements. Sooo you need to paint them.

I sanded down my rock rash scratches on the bottom of my control arms, primed it and painted it. I forgot to take pics of it painted but here it is primed.

 

[Anathollo]

I drained my diff fluid in preparation for installing the ECGS bushing as well as it is time to change the diff fluid anyways. Had I not taken all of my front suspension off already to where I could fit my 1/2" impact, I would NOT have gotten my diff drain bolt out. I had to heat the bolt up twice and give it about a 100 uggadugga's before it finally came out. It was completely seized in there. While I had the drain bolt out, I went ahead and put a new copper seal washer on it.

@CowboyTaco This is what I was talking about awhile back. You put the Wonderbar like this and smack it with a 2lb hammer. Took three wacks and it popped right out.

I read about some people having issues getting the CV axle seal out, well here's an easy way to do it. I took my Knipex pliers and gripped the seal. I then turned my pliers sideways to bend the seal. Once I got the seal to bend, it came out as one unit fairly easy. My seal was still in great condition despite the truck having 210k miles on it.

My needle bearing was still in great condition but I can see that there is a lot of play in the bushing as shown by ECGS. I'm hoping this cures my inner CV boot issues. That boot is the only one that constantly gives me grief with the clamps popping off. I'm hoping that's due to the amount of play in the OEM needle bearing.

The ECGS bushing was a TIGHT fit into my diff housing. A 30mm socket fit the diameter of the bushing perfectly and is what I used to install it.

Here is the inner CV axle seal part # if anyone needs it. I do wish I had bought the install tool from ECGS to install this seal but I'll swing by Autozone tomorrow and rent a tool kit that will have the right size to install it.

 

[PSU Taco85]

This is the outer CV axle seal that fits into the seal on the spindle. It took me a lot of research to get this part #.
View attachment 14451

you can just get the aftermarket timken ones at any auto parts store, they are the same quality as the OEM last time i compared them side to side

 

[Anathollo]

you can just get the aftermarket timken ones at any auto parts store, they are the same quality as the OEM last time i compared them side to side

Are you talking about the whole axle itself?

 

[PSU Taco85]

Are you talking about the whole axle itself?

No the seal. The aftermarket axles last about a week

 

[Silverback]

No the seal. The aftermarket axles last about a week

Fact LOL

 

[Anathollo]

No the seal. The aftermarket axles last about a week

Ahh ok. Yeah I was about to say...

 

[CowboyTaco]

My needle bearing looked the same when it came out. I don't think it's so much a thing of the bearing wearing out as it is making noise and not being suited to handle the angle of lifted trucks. Mine started making the lifted truck with aggressive tires groan on the highway about 3-5k after installing my lift. This was when I still had the Dunlop Grantrek AT20 tires that came on the truck, so I knew it wasn't the tires making all that noise. I can now hear the change in road noise when I transition from asphalt to concrete. Before, they all sounded the same.

Good to know on the position of the crowbar. That's not exactly what I was thinking you described and subsequently not how I got it out. Flathead screw driver and BFH did the trick for me.

Edit: Oh, and if you touched the ECGS bushing with bare hands a few weeks before install, don't be surprised to see your fingerprints in a rush pattern on the bushing. Ask me how I know . It wiped off pretty easy though and looked good as new.

 

[Anathollo]

My needle bearing looked the same when it came out. I don't think it's so much a thing of the bearing wearing out as it is making noise and not being suited to handle the angle of lifted trucks. Mine started making the lifted truck with aggressive tires groan on the highway about 3-5k after installing my lift. This was when I still had the Dunlop Grantrek AT20 tires that came on the truck, so I knew it wasn't the tires making all that noise. I can now hear the change in road noise when I transition from asphalt to concrete. Before, they all sounded the same.

Good to know on the position of the crowbar. That's not exactly what I was thinking you described and subsequently not how I got it out. Flathead screw driver and BFH did the trick for me.

Edit: Oh, and if you touched the ECGS bushing with bare hands a few weeks before install, don't be surprised to see your fingerprints in a rush pattern on the bushing. Ask me how I know . It wiped off pretty easy though and looked good as new.

Well now you know a faster position to get it out. And I didn't even open the ECGS box until I started the install, so I didn't have to worry about fingerprints. I did have to worry about finding that box since I ordered it awhile ago and forgot where I put it

 

[CowboyTaco]

speaking of aftermarket axles. I saw on napa's website that they have remanufactured cv axles. Nowhere could I find if those were OEM remans or aftermarket remans...

 

[Oswego]

I drained my diff fluid in preparation for installing the ECGS bushing as well as it is time to change the diff fluid anyways. Had I not taken all of my front suspension off already to where I could fit my 1/2" impact, I would NOT have gotten my diff drain bolt out. I had to heat the bolt up twice and give it about a 100 uggadugga's before it finally came out. It was completely seized in there. While I had the drain bolt out, I went ahead and put a new copper seal washer on it.

@CowboyTaco This is what I was talking about awhile back. You put the Wonderbar like this and smack it with a 2lb hammer. Took three wacks and it popped right out.
View attachment 14469

I read about some people having issues getting the CV axle seal out, well here's an easy way to do it. I took my Knipex pliers and gripped the seal. I then turned my pliers sideways to bend the seal. Once I got the seal to bend, it came out as one unit fairly easy. My seal was still in great condition despite the truck having 210k miles on it.
View attachment 14470
View attachment 14471

My needle bearing was still in great condition but I can see that there is a lot of play in the bushing as shown by ECGS. I'm hoping this cures my inner CV boot issues. That boot is the only one that constantly gives me grief with the clamps popping off. I'm hoping that's due to the amount of play in the OEM needle bearing.

View attachment 14472
View attachment 14473

The ECGS bushing was a TIGHT fit into my diff housing. A 30mm socket fit the diameter of the bushing perfectly and is what I used to install it.
View attachment 14476

Here is the inner CV axle seal part # if anyone needs it. I do wish I had bought the install tool from ECGS to install this seal but I'll swing by Autozone tomorrow and rent a tool kit that will have the right size to install it.
View attachment 14475

So funny - after 8+ years I was thinking last year their powder coat is great. My TC UCA's only have a few spots of rust from rock dings.

 

[Anathollo]

Got my CV axle rebuilt and sealed up.
Ceaned off all the old paint on my TC spindle plates and other parts, put a couple of primer and paint coats on them.
Cleaned up all the bolts on my wire wheel and the tool part I needed came in.
So once I get home from my daughter's doctor appointment, I can finally start putting my truck back together!

 

[Anathollo]

Got my CV axle rebuilt and sealed up.
Ceaned off all the old paint on my TC spindle plates and other parts, put a couple of primer and paint coats on them.
Cleaned up all the bolts on my wire wheel and the tool part I needed came in.
So once I get home from my daughter's doctor appointment, I can finally start putting my truck back together!

Drivers side is back together except for my secondary shock. I'll hopefully have time to do the passenger side this weekend.