achirdo
2WD FTW
Silicone and bailing wire are life savers
After the the mounting tabs on my tail lights broke for the second time I siliconed that bitch In place
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
They are next on the shopping list!
Oh yeah forgot about my HID ballasts too
Bailing wire for the MFOSW!!! (MFOSW same as MFW but with Old School inserted!)
Hell yeah! Except I'm mid school, not quite old but sure ain't new school :o
Silicone and bailing wire are life savers
After the the mounting tabs on my tail lights broke for the second time I siliconed that bitch In place
Agree, I keep a tube of it in the tool box at all times, it's about as essential as WD40 and duct tape!
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
This weekend I finished wiring up my in cab winch controls.
I'll share with anyone who wants to wire up some in cab controls for the newer warn winches how to do it since I didn't see any information. The newer winches use 5 wires as opposed to the older 3 wire system. The 3 wire system has wires for power, winch in, winch out.
The 5 wire system contains 2 extra wires to control the voltage side of the circuit as well as the ground. I'm assuming this is for an additional safety feature. The two extra wires in the 5 wire setup are a brown wire which controls the switched ground and the black wire which is a ground that are wired out to the remote plug.
So what does all that nonsense mean you ask? Well tying into in cab control is basically the same for the 5 wire setup except for one extra step, tying the brown and black wires together in the control box. This avoids having to run them to your remote switch. It permanently ties the switched ground and ground wire together to essentially turn it back into the 3 wire setup.
So basically, hack into the control box and wire it up like this
I added a fuse to the power cable going through the firewall in case of a short in the solenoid pack or wire insulation. Then tie the power, winch in, winch out to the normal SPST isolation switch and DPDT on-off-on momentary switch.
Here's the bracket I made for the control box
It bolts to the other bracket I made up for the air compressor, really sturdy and keeps the solenoid out of harms way and also easy access. I used nylock nuts to ensure nothing vibrates loose.
I'm slowly counteracting my Taco lean rofl
I'll share with anyone who wants to wire up some in cab controls for the newer warn winches how to do it since I didn't see any information. The newer winches use 5 wires as opposed to the older 3 wire system. The 3 wire system has wires for power, winch in, winch out.
The 5 wire system contains 2 extra wires to control the voltage side of the circuit as well as the ground. I'm assuming this is for an additional safety feature. The two extra wires in the 5 wire setup are a brown wire which controls the switched ground and the black wire which is a ground that are wired out to the remote plug.
So what does all that nonsense mean you ask? Well tying into in cab control is basically the same for the 5 wire setup except for one extra step, tying the brown and black wires together in the control box. This avoids having to run them to your remote switch. It permanently ties the switched ground and ground wire together to essentially turn it back into the 3 wire setup.
So basically, hack into the control box and wire it up like this
I added a fuse to the power cable going through the firewall in case of a short in the solenoid pack or wire insulation. Then tie the power, winch in, winch out to the normal SPST isolation switch and DPDT on-off-on momentary switch.
Here's the bracket I made for the control box
It bolts to the other bracket I made up for the air compressor, really sturdy and keeps the solenoid out of harms way and also easy access. I used nylock nuts to ensure nothing vibrates loose.
I'm slowly counteracting my Taco lean rofl
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Excellent work! Looks like you powder coated that bracket. Nice!
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Rustoleum flat black FTW
Haven't updated this in a while but last weekend I got the rear bumper all bolted up. Big thanks to Boyd and Craig for their help, could not have hauled this bitch without them
Safety first!
Picked up some LEDs for the aux reverse lights, 1410 luments should do nicely
Now that the bumpers are finished I'm prepping for the crawler install. Sending the driveshafts off to get reworked next week and ordering all fluids for the t-case and crawler along with switch for rewiring the ADD. After that it's more cuttin time
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I'm really happy with how it turned out
Tonight I mounted the flip up license plate to access the hidden hitch, don't mind the shitty paint job
Tonight I mounted the flip up license plate to access the hidden hitch, don't mind the shitty paint job
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Yeah costs me a good penny to get on that cover
Bought a welder the other week so I have been practicing and will be doing some reinforcing of my skidplates and front bumper/frame mounts one of these weekends. The tabs where the studs are on the front bumper mount are quite bent and could use some reinforcing. Debating whether to straighten them out and weld a gusset in or just cut them off and weld a whole new mount on using some thicker steel and grade 8 bolts for the front bumper mounts. Thoughts?
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Yep should prob just send her out to the scraps, time for a new project
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Did some wheelin this weekend with a few locals.
Walked the crawler up a few spots
Walked the crawler up a few spots
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Papa wheelie!
[video=youtube_share;EWKt-4BkHU4]http://youtu.be/EWKt-4BkHU4[/video]
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Figured I'd finally update this build a bit
Determined that the shackle should be a little shorter so I redrilled the mounts 2" back. Drilling through 3/8" steel was fun, lots of metal shards flying everywhere LOL. To get the holes lined up side to side I simply tacked them together so they wouldn't move.
Started with 1/4" pilot hole
Stepped up to 1/2"
Then to 23/32", this was the closes HSS bit I could find to 18mm
End result, some modified 4" shackles
\
New shackle angle at ride height, much better than with the 6" shackle
New ride height, dropped the back about an inch so now it sits pretty much level
Also decided on a mirror mount for the tube doors, it really sucks driving without any mirrors LOL. I didn't like the option 4x offers not a fan of the chrome or the $50 price tag. Instead I'll reuse my dual sport mirror on a trick tab, then once on the trail I can simply unbolt it if I need the extra clearance.
Determined that the shackle should be a little shorter so I redrilled the mounts 2" back. Drilling through 3/8" steel was fun, lots of metal shards flying everywhere LOL. To get the holes lined up side to side I simply tacked them together so they wouldn't move.
Started with 1/4" pilot hole
Stepped up to 1/2"
Then to 23/32", this was the closes HSS bit I could find to 18mm
End result, some modified 4" shackles
\New shackle angle at ride height, much better than with the 6" shackle
New ride height, dropped the back about an inch so now it sits pretty much level
Also decided on a mirror mount for the tube doors, it really sucks driving without any mirrors LOL. I didn't like the option 4x offers not a fan of the chrome or the $50 price tag. Instead I'll reuse my dual sport mirror on a trick tab, then once on the trail I can simply unbolt it if I need the extra clearance.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
More updates
Got the rear shocks 95% done. The 1" body lift helped out alot with getting these suckers to fit, otherwise you'd have a tough time fitting 12" shocks inboard of the leafs without going through the bed.
The reason I wanted to inboard them was to keep the bed preserved (at least for now) and I don't have a bender to make a shock hoop for the outside of the frame and I wasn't paying anybody to do the work cuz I'm cheap LOL. Also I haven't seen too many 2nd gens with this mounting configuration. This also allowed me to retain the stock mounts if I ever decide to go back to the stock location for whatever reason. The whole setup cost me ~$80 in parts minus the shocks
The icon shocks I had in the stock location were 25" at full extension, not sure what the compressed length was but they were about 3" too short for my rear springs. They were made for a 3" lift so they say
Axle mount welded up
Under the axle tube, my upside down welds seem to be getting better
Upper hoop, 1.5" 3/16 square tube with 1/4" shock tabs for double shear, shouldn't have to worry about any flex with this setup. I notched the composite reinforcement under the bed so I could get the crossmember up as high as possible.
I then made the top hoop disconnectable in case I need to weld another tab on or change anything up so I don't have to redo the whole thing.
Resi mount for one of the shocks, welded up to one of the crossmembers behind the gas tank
Painted everything up
Axle all painted and shocks mounted, ran out of daylight so I'll have to flex it out another time. shocks ended up around 35* at ride height, they are valved a little stiffer to compensate for the angle.
I have about 3.5" of shock shaft showing at ride height so I should be good. At least now I won't have to worry about the shock being my downtravel limiter. Got everything buttoned up and took for a test ride, everything seems pretty decent and the ride is smooth.
Picked up a 45* turndown from vato zone and a clamp, total cost of $10 haha, it'll do for now and keep my shock resi from burning up.
Drivers side just about fully stuffed, still some shock travel left so I don't have to worry about bottoming out the shock. Passenger side still has another 2" of downtravel or so
Also replaced the zerks in the shackle bolts and regreased them. The one that come with the trail gear shackles are junk and failed after a short while.
You can see the shackle isn't quite verticle yet so I still have some downtravel left on the passenger side
Passenger front not fully stuffed yet either
Got the rear shocks 95% done. The 1" body lift helped out alot with getting these suckers to fit, otherwise you'd have a tough time fitting 12" shocks inboard of the leafs without going through the bed.
The reason I wanted to inboard them was to keep the bed preserved (at least for now
) and I don't have a bender to make a shock hoop for the outside of the frame and I wasn't paying anybody to do the work cuz I'm cheap LOL. Also I haven't seen too many 2nd gens with this mounting configuration. This also allowed me to retain the stock mounts if I ever decide to go back to the stock location for whatever reason. The whole setup cost me ~$80 in parts minus the shocksThe icon shocks I had in the stock location were 25" at full extension, not sure what the compressed length was but they were about 3" too short for my rear springs. They were made for a 3" lift so they say
Axle mount welded up
Under the axle tube, my upside down welds seem to be getting better
Upper hoop, 1.5" 3/16 square tube with 1/4" shock tabs for double shear, shouldn't have to worry about any flex with this setup. I notched the composite reinforcement under the bed so I could get the crossmember up as high as possible.
I then made the top hoop disconnectable in case I need to weld another tab on or change anything up so I don't have to redo the whole thing.
Resi mount for one of the shocks, welded up to one of the crossmembers behind the gas tank
Painted everything up
Axle all painted and shocks mounted, ran out of daylight so I'll have to flex it out another time. shocks ended up around 35* at ride height, they are valved a little stiffer to compensate for the angle.
I have about 3.5" of shock shaft showing at ride height so I should be good. At least now I won't have to worry about the shock being my downtravel limiter. Got everything buttoned up and took for a test ride, everything seems pretty decent and the ride is smooth.
Picked up a 45* turndown from vato zone and a clamp, total cost of $10 haha, it'll do for now and keep my shock resi from burning up.
Drivers side just about fully stuffed, still some shock travel left so I don't have to worry about bottoming out the shock. Passenger side still has another 2" of downtravel or so
Also replaced the zerks in the shackle bolts and regreased them. The one that come with the trail gear shackles are junk and failed after a short while.
You can see the shackle isn't quite verticle yet so I still have some downtravel left on the passenger side
Passenger front not fully stuffed yet either
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Huh I just used 3/4" bit to drill mine out, I don't think there's enough play there to be a problem
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
I probably was over thinking. I had searched for 18mm drill bits with no success, so I went to the closest fraction I could find. 23/32 was slightly larger than 18mm and I found a bit on amazon for $15. Like I said, I probably thought too much into it
Slimwood Shady
Full of FAIL
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Looks great man. Nice welds!