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try some contact cleaner.
CowboyTaco's 2011 DCSB TRD Sport
- Thread starter CowboyTaco
- Start date
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Occasionally I would have to grab the wire harness and move it, and mine would work again, mine just ended being the resistors, been working for months now and zero issues.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Well, hot dang. I thought it was a 4-pin connector that attached to the blower motor. I went to take a picture of it to prove someone on TW wrong. Turns out, I was wrong. It's a 2-pin connector. The same guy suggested checking the connector there too. I think I found my problem....or at least a result of the problem.
Well that does not look like a good thing.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Toyota doesn't sell the wires and connector as a kit, so you have to order the connector and 2 wires. I'm not thrilled about having 2 of the same colored wires going into a connector, but I guess it is what it is. I also put some dielectric grease inside the connecting point on the wires. I've read that dielectric grease is non-conductive and is just used to insulate connections. I figure there is no harm and since it is an insulator, maybe it will keep oxygen out and prevent future sparks should the connection ever become weak in the future.
Of course, I'll be checking the blower motor side of the house before connecting everything up, but at least the plug will be fixed.
Of course, I'll be checking the blower motor side of the house before connecting everything up, but at least the plug will be fixed.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Also, finished rebooting the OE CV axle that came off the other side. Plan is to replace the CV axle on the side that is torn and the LCA on both sides.
Then, order another reboot kit and get the one that comes off rebooted and ready to be used as a spare. Hopefully, I can return the Dorman LCA crap to Autozone under their lifetime warranty.
Instead of buying the specialty tool for the other boot, I bought a universal boot clamp from Napa for $3.
They didn't have them at Advance Auto Parts. The guy behind the counter was a young kid and had no idea what I was talking about. So he asked the old guy in the back who asked me a few questions (by yelling from the back) and said to just use a zip tie. Before I could respond he said "ASE Certified mechanic for over 20 years. Never had one fail and never had one come back." I looked at the kid and said "yeah, I'm not doing that."
Then, order another reboot kit and get the one that comes off rebooted and ready to be used as a spare. Hopefully, I can return the Dorman LCA crap to Autozone under their lifetime warranty.
Instead of buying the specialty tool for the other boot, I bought a universal boot clamp from Napa for $3.
They didn't have them at Advance Auto Parts. The guy behind the counter was a young kid and had no idea what I was talking about. So he asked the old guy in the back who asked me a few questions (by yelling from the back) and said to just use a zip tie. Before I could respond he said "ASE Certified mechanic for over 20 years. Never had one fail and never had one come back." I looked at the kid and said "yeah, I'm not doing that."
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balakay
BabyMax
You can buy OEM reman axles for $100 from Toyota. At least 4Runners can. But they should fit 2nd gen Tacomas as well I believe.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Back before I ordered the reboot kit, they were going for ~$185 and were on national backorder. Now that I have the tools, I can have my other one rebooted for $55 and an hour or so of work.
For anyone looking for a solid option, the Cardone HD CV axle that I have on the other side has performed flawlessly. I would absolutely buy that one again. IIRC, it cost about $75 shipped. I believe the only difference is the quality of the boot over the OE replacement Cardone, which was about $35 from Rock Auto.
I think the real difference is when you start putting stress/loads on non-OEM CV axles and then they start breaking. I still believe the OEM are made better/stronger than the cheap replacement CV's you get.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
I don't disagree. I meant the difference between the Cardone and the Cardone HD is the quality of the boot.
Per my post back on page 3 of this thread:
This is why I plan to reboot the one that I take off when I swap out for the one I just rebooted. Then I'll just keep it as a spare for when it is needed.
Assuming the Cardone is the next one that needs replacing, it has a lifetime warranty.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
OEM reboot kit is about $35 at McGeorge.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Wow, that's alot of work. I buy the "85k" axles on ebay that are OEM for like $60 and run them into the ground, and then run about 5 more sets of them. it's not worth rebooting and it's also not worth buying chinese shit. Just wait for an asian woman to crash her taco and grab her shafts off ebay for cheap off the interweb.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
On that note, if you need an axle, let me know I have about 30 of them sitting in my shop. I bought up any consumable parts when I first got my truck, and I don't trust those cat eating fucks to produce an axle that can take more than a few hammer downs on the throttle.
I have had better than expected success with O'Reilly's aftermarket CV axles. When I broke the gears in the front axle on my 3rd gen 4R there was on aftermarket axle in the rig that did not break. I really wish it had broke instead of the gears.
I think Jason has been through 3 O'Reilly's CV axles. One of which ruined his Colorado trip on day one out seven.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Last night the drivers side got a new OEM LCA and Napa Proformer Chassis sway bar end-link (PCC 1880948).
Today, the passenger side got a new OEM LCA, Napa Proformer Chassis sway bar end-link (PCC 1880946), and rebooted OEM CV axle.
Truck has just under 167,000 miles.
The alignment was just a little out after all the work.
Today, the passenger side got a new OEM LCA, Napa Proformer Chassis sway bar end-link (PCC 1880946), and rebooted OEM CV axle.
Truck has just under 167,000 miles.
The alignment was just a little out after all the work.
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CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking UCAs will be my next purchase. The upper ball joints are looking pretty rough. I'm leaning toward the ARB OME UCA mainly because of cost, but I also like them as a company. The TC and Camburg are a little outside of what I want to pay. SPC and JBA have had their production issues in the past, but I'll still consider them if I found a good enough deal on them.
Also, inner and outer tie-rod ends. The rubber on the outer tie rod ends has seen better days.
I also found a TRD exhaust for under $400 that I'm contemplating. It's new old stock at one of the local-ish dealerships. I really wish my truck had a little more power. I know a cat-back exhaust isn't going to win any competition, but I've been reading up on them and it sounds like they do actually provide a little more umph (and possibly MPG if you don't drive more aggressively).
Also, inner and outer tie-rod ends. The rubber on the outer tie rod ends has seen better days.
I also found a TRD exhaust for under $400 that I'm contemplating. It's new old stock at one of the local-ish dealerships. I really wish my truck had a little more power. I know a cat-back exhaust isn't going to win any competition, but I've been reading up on them and it sounds like they do actually provide a little more umph (and possibly MPG if you don't drive more aggressively).
Swaybar? What's that?
Swaybar? What's that?
Been debating putting mine back on. The rig handles okay at normal speeds but if I am at or over posted speeds it gets a little dippy; worse with the RTT on top.