Dark Knight.

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
Right on schedule with the 2+ years between posts here. I find myself in a hole on the internet at 445 am on night shift stumbling across Toyota shit. It's been a fun 2 years building an 88 pickup. ARB locked front/rear w/5.29's. 35" tires and stuff. Next is a new engine. Leaning towards a 209YOTA1.com Complete 3.0L. I believe the 3.4L swap is just more than I'm interested in changing or dealing with.

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Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Right on schedule with the 2+ years between posts here. I find myself in a hole on the internet at 445 am on night shift stumbling across Toyota shit. It's been a fun 2 years building an 88 pickup. ARB locked front/rear w/5.29's. 35" tires and stuff. Next is a new engine. Leaning towards a 209YOTA1.com Complete 3.0L. I believe the 3.4L swap is just more than I'm interested in changing or dealing with.

5409f5d2-3eeb-4cc7-b35f-cbe6ad759080-jpeg.272623


a839af61-332c-4849-be06-5408b306798b-jpeg.292234


c61826b7-92bb-45ad-a20f-0130ba480ab2-jpeg.297730


332c8cf9-c3c9-4f78-9f27-725544d01678-jpeg.300598

Good lookin truck sir! Long time no see, welcome back.

There used to be a little red truck on here
Little Red 85 Build no longer little or almost no red.

Another vote for the LS!
 
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Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
LS would be speedy but this one is going to stay all Toyota. I don’t have the need to go fast in the truck.

boomtacoma’s build is impressive but there’s something I like about keeping it simple for this truck. Time will tell, but trucks rust free like this are not found in the south east (Oregon truck until 2017), so I’d like to keep the body as intact as possible. I just enjoy driving it every day.

Thanks for the warm welcome back.

also looking for a 4.7 single case.
 

tex

That's Mr Asshole to you
You can always do a 1UZ swap and keep it all Toyota
 

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
1uz would be SWEET! Still don’t need all that power. My goal on this truck is to be as capable as possible while maintaining the looks and mechanics, standard or slightly upgraded, as though it were a factory solid axle 88 pickup.
 

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
New engine and heater core are in. I had the engine done at a buddies shop, the heater core I did last weekend. It was a fun project. If your going by the picture, you’re almost there. Gotta remove the full plastic assembly and the two metal upright supports that hold the stereo and the heater box falls right out.
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The new engine is running a little warmer than the tired 310k+ engine that was removed. Only 225 miles on the bored 20 over new one. It has never over heated but likes to warm up to a little over mid way on the temp gauge when sitting in traffic. Thoughts??
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
An engine that has been bored out, will typically run warmer, thinner walls, faster heat transfer to the water ports.

Radiators are cheap and typically should be changed when engine swaps are preformed.

But the first thing I would change is the thermostat to a lower temp spec than stock spec.
 

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
The radiator was fairly new when I purchased the truck. It is sparkling clean. The thermostat I got was factory toyota 88 degree C which was installed new when we put together the new engine. I believe an 82 degree C is also available for the 3VZE.
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
New aisin 180 degree thermostat ordered. The one in there is a 190 degree. That should help.

old school methods include by drilling 1/8th size hole as well. Important to also double check your temp using IR gauge and compare truck gauge.
proper mix of coolant is important also, in the late 80's Asian cars/trucks change form green to the red/pink coolant, what did those motors run back then?
 

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
I’ve been running the pink stuff successfully since day one base line of changing all fluids. It’s also very difficult to get all the air out of this 3VZE. The heater hose arrangement is just like the 22re but there is also a coolant sensor block on the back near the firewall that can hold some air. Have to jack up the front and run it while squeezing hoses for a while to alleviate air pockets. I’ll grab an IR temp detector from my fire brigade equipment at work and check some temps once the new thermostat is in. That a good idea.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Obvious question is obvious - fan clutch is in good shape? Temp climbing when sitting still sounds like the air flow is dropping too much. But I also agree with swapping the thermostat out; easier to be cool when the motor starts out cooler.
 

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
The fan clutch was replaced with a new aisin unit when the engine was dropped in. I wish I had paid attention to the fan speed before at normal operating temp to have a better sense of what the right speed. If the new thermostat doesn’t help, I’ll look in to the flex a lite 674 electric fan set up. Like I said, it doesn’t seem to be over heating, just warmer than before. The bored 20 over and warmer thermostat that’s currently in there makes sense but it shouldn’t be heating up in traffic.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
The 'in traffic' part caught my attention. Lower speeds are already bad for reduced air flow.
 

Dark Knight

Well-Known Member
A preliminary drive around town with the 180 degree thermostat shows the temp is much happier. Temp shows a tick below mid way and doesn’t move upward when at stop lights.

The 190 degree OEM one I got for the new engine was from Yota shop. It’s weird because I have read 190 is correct and 180 is correct. 180 is definitely more correct.

Next up I have a new MagnaFlow CAT coming next week along with an allpoop front winch bumper. Need to find a good deal on a winch.
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
A preliminary drive around town with the 180 degree thermostat shows the temp is much happier. Temp shows a tick below mid way and doesn’t move upward when at stop lights.

The 190 degree OEM one I got for the new engine was from Yota shop. It’s weird because I have read 190 is correct and 180 is correct. 180 is definitely more correct.

Next up I have a new MagnaFlow CAT coming next week along with an allpoop front winch bumper. Need to find a good deal on a winch.

good deal, glad it worked out, I had a friend replace a motor in a Mazda truck few years back, after he had the motor machined, he kept running hot, told him to drive over so I take a look at it, needless to say he didn’t put the 2 piece fan shroud back in...and that was making it run hot while sitting in traffic.
 
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