Larry's SuperCoolBullbarredTribalStickered-HoodventedATRACedBrotacularWhip Build
- Thread starter Lrgrnr
- Start date
I used the standard equivalent to do mine.......if I don't have the tool to do it.....a family member does
I put my electric impact wrench in a vise, put on the socket I needed to turn down, held the trigger with a set of vive grips, and used an angle grinder to remove enough metal so it would fit.
Lrgrnr
Well-Known Member
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't be too bad since I spent the extra $25 for the solid collar. Should just need to retorque and restake the nut just like the t-case. I just posted up the question on Marlin's board so we'll see. If not I'll just drill out the diff flange. I just bought a 1st gen 4runner double cardan CV on fleabay for $70 shipped
Just make sure you stake the nut.. they tend to back off otherwise. Then you are stuff looking for a 30mm socket at 2AM. Wait does that sound like I've done that?
yeah I'd hate to go through all that work only to lose me nut
Lrgrnr
Well-Known Member
link?
Redneck lathe FTW!
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't be too bad since I spent the extra $25 for the solid collar. Should just need to retorque and restake the nut just like the t-case. I just posted up the question on Marlin's board so we'll see. If not I'll just drill out the diff flange. I just bought a 1st gen 4runner double cardan CV on fleabay for $70 shipped
Standard 30mm socket fits just fine its what ive used on mine several times. Solid collar spacer is easy just torque it back to 90ft/lbs, crush sleeve is trickier but still doable take the pinion nut off counting the revolutions of the nut then put it back on the same number of revolutions plus a quarter turn(a little too much preload is better than not enough) get your flanges drilled by a local machine shop it'll be much cheaper
If you have a solid spacer, you are good to go, just torque it down real good and restake
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=90257.0
That's what I wanted to hear
Thanks. Once the shaft comes in I'll remove the flange and find a place.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Actually found some good info (for anybody that needs aftermarket driveshaft for that matter). The 3rd generation 4x 4runner 96-02 has a double cardan shaft that matches with the t-case bolt pattern (66x66mm), the only thing is the diff ujoint and hence flange pattern is a bit smaller so the flange will be required to be drilled. I'm going to take my flange to a machine shop and have it milled then should be good to go. Thanks for your input fellas
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...df/02rmsour/2002/024runne/pr/psa14wd/comp.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...df/02rmsour/2002/024runne/pr/psa14wd/comp.pdf
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
1st gen tacomas (some of them) have a cv on the rear driveshaft supposed to have greater operating angle than a clearanced ifs front shaft id like to fibd one to use for my front driveshaft
TacoXpo
HOAX DENIER
Lrgrnr
Well-Known Member
Here's how to make the runner shaft into a high angle......not too complicated.
OK. When you build one of these super flexy trucks, they require a driveshaft that can handle the massive angles put upon them. The stock shafts won't work even if you lengthen them so what do you do? You can call up Jesse at Highangle Driveline or JE Reel driveline and have them build one for you. They both do excellent work. Or you can build your own. I did both.
Some of the information and pictures you'll see here are from an article I found in 4x4 wire. http://www.4x4wire.com/index.php?opt...tech&Itemid=53
It showed me exactly what I needed to do to build my own flexy driveshaft.
The other reason for going with this set up is because the joints in the Toyota driveshafts are some of the strongest around and the flange setup makes it just that much stronger with great range than say a Dana 60 1350 joint and yoke.
Jesse at Highangle driveline supplied me with a set of Flanges that bolt up to my Dana 60's but will also bolt up to my new Highangle Toyota driveshafts.
Also, when you lift one of these newer Taco's, many have found that you get vibration from the rear shaft. Solution... a one peice driveshaft. Here are the two driveshafts that Highangle made for me and Marlin Crawler modified. (they were too short when they got them from highangle).
So, what do you need to build one of these yourself? We found that the '84 '85 Toyota ifs 4runner or ifs trucks front drive shaft was perfect for this build. They are cheap from the junk yard and they use the stronger driveline bolts. the only problem with these is the cv or double cardan joint will only supply about 22 degrees of angle in it's stock form. Solution.... clearence the joint.
Following is how we clearenced the cv by using the information found in the 4x4 wire article.
We found a driveshaft from an '85 ifs 4runner cut off the cv and went to town with our new found information.
Next are the pictures from the article in 4x4 wire. http://www.4x4wire.com/index.php?opt...tech&Itemid=53
First you need to pound out the caps.
Then you need to remove the needle bearings.
Next, get some small washers to use as spacers so you can get the other cap off.
Pound off the other cap.
Remove the cap and keep your washers. Your going to need them for the other end of the joint.
Now your flange protion is apart. It's hard to see in all the grease, but there is a small sprng in there and if you loose it you'll be at the junk yard looking for another driveshaft. Keep it safe.
Pound out the remaining cap.
Repeat the process on the other end of the joint. remembe, this is a DOUBLE cardan joint.
Now your joint is apart.
This is what your cv looks like when it's all apart.
Removing the cross from the yoke. These crosses or ujoints, have little crings or clips that you have to take off first before you can remove the cap. They are on the inside of the joint. Ijust used a screw driver and a hammer to get them out. I would suggest using toyota joint if you can find them when you put these together if the ones you took out are worn or no good. Problem is, they are hard to find. Toyota does not sell them seperatly and when you go to find them at a parts store, they will have different ones in the same box. I have gotten four of the same boxes from napa and inside the boxes were four different ujoints with the same part number.
Now it's time to get rid of the dust shield. The dust shield is just there to keep dust out when it flexes. Just grease it up often and you shouldn't have any problems. Then you need to grind down the edges some to gain the extra clearence you will need.
In these two pictures, you can see how much more clearence this gives you.
In these two pictures, you can see where we grinded to get our clearence.
Now since we have more clearence, you'll have to give the inner zerk fitting more clearence.
Here you can see why you needed to grind extra room in the "H" for your zerk fitting. It's the center zerk fitting.
Now put it all back together and you have a hi-angle cv. Takes about two hours and saves you about $300.00.
Here you can see the difference between a stock cv on the left and a clearenced cv on the right. It now has about 35 degrees of movement as opposed to about 22 degrees on the stock cv.
Then go find some .095 or .120 wall tubing, weld it up, take it to your favorite drive line shop and have it balanced and your good to go.
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Taco joint is supposed to be good to go out of the box for 30* clearance should be around 40*. The ifs shafts or at least mine was only good for 30* after clearancing before i broke it
Lrgrnr
Well-Known Member
You get a reply from Wyatt? He said he carries them. Basically takes a Stock flange and sends it to Marlin for drilling.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Me neither, there is a double cardan right after my shitty carrier bearing but I have not seen a "once piece" double cardan tacoma shaft. Right now I have the 1st gen IFS 4runner front shaft I plan on modifying or at least using for parts and I'll see if I can find a cheap 3rd gen 4runner rear shaft in the future to build a spare. Wyatt said none of the adapters on Marlin's site will fit the FJ t-case. So the only choice is to drill out for additional holes
I did . He said easiest solution would be to drill yourself or he may be able to send me a tripple drilled t-case flange.
I did . He said easiest solution would be to drill yourself or he may be able to send me a tripple drilled t-case flange.
Lrgrnr
Well-Known Member
It's weird that it lists the 05+ Tacoma and 07+ FJ on their site.......confusing..
taco4x4rar
Well-Known Member
Thing is.....I've never seen a Taco double cardin
My self either im assuming they are talking about the one after the carrier bearing on 2 piece shafts
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'm not sure. Here's the exact email I got from Wyatt earlier this morning:
"Actually it's a little more difficult than that. What you would need to do is have your flanges drilled to accept the drive shaft pattern. The flanges Marlin has won't fit either your drive shaft or the t case. I may have a t case flange that I had triple drilled. I do them from time to time just for this reason but it's just as easy to have your own drilled. It's more expensive than the Marlin units but they fit your application. "