Yep they are Icons.
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- Thread starter Mitt78
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italynstylion
Well-Known Member
Basically, they swap out the top hat and change the angle of the reservoir routing to make it fit. It's actually quite simple but yields some stellar benefits.
And yes, I'll be doing a review on both the Fox setup and Accutune once it all arrives. Should be here in the next couple of days.
Truth be told, it was user install error. When we took out the UCA pivot bolt it was a pain in the dick like usual. It comes out the top (high side) of the UCA into the engine bay. I was told some guys put the bolt back in from the bottom because it's easier. While this is technically true; it's a really bad fucking idea. Why? Because if that nut backs off the pivot bolt is allowed to slide right out because it's facing downhill. If the bolt goes in from the top, that issue can't happen. Trust me, I know.
Drove home from Tyler Texas like this. Thought the truck felt a bit odd but I assumed it was just mud stuck in the wheels throwing off their balance. Got home and saw this...the nut, the entire bushing w/sleeve and washer on the other side were long gone. Scott overnighted parts to me for cheap.
Oswego
n00b
Yikes. Luckily with all the salt up here we do not have that issue + I put blue Loctite on every single bolt & nut to save them from corrosion.
Do you think gravity would of really stopped that from happening? I just swapped my steering rack bolts so they can come out easily, but never worried about the bolts dropping out should they loosen. Never had a bolt back out but like I said I torque everything to spec and loctite everything but my lugnutz - those get anti seize.
Need to get yourself some cross check markers.... I know I need them. Cross Check - Tamper Proof Torque Marker at PEW Electrical Going crazy trying to see the golden sharpie marks on all the bolts I torqued down during my motor swap and thats delaying me because I'm working on it sporadically and forgetting where I left off. Should of just spent the $5 and got the right stuff. I still may buy them. Would make pre-wheeling inspections much quicker for me.
Do you think gravity would of really stopped that from happening? I just swapped my steering rack bolts so they can come out easily, but never worried about the bolts dropping out should they loosen. Never had a bolt back out but like I said I torque everything to spec and loctite everything but my lugnutz - those get anti seize.
Need to get yourself some cross check markers.... I know I need them. Cross Check - Tamper Proof Torque Marker at PEW Electrical Going crazy trying to see the golden sharpie marks on all the bolts I torqued down during my motor swap and thats delaying me because I'm working on it sporadically and forgetting where I left off. Should of just spent the $5 and got the right stuff. I still may buy them. Would make pre-wheeling inspections much quicker for me.
Thanks I just ordered some off Amazon.
italynstylion
Well-Known Member
Yeah good idea with the cross check markers. Never really thought about using them but it should help for sure.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I just use a white paint pen.
I haven't had good luck with the paint pen holding up.
Oswego
n00b
Using a copper colored sharpie that almost matches the mud color of my truck when I have 20+ paint markers in the house. My only fear with the cross check markers is that ice chunks/mud/debris would wipe them off the nut/bolt whatever when it's brushed by something. Good thing we have a guinea pig to test it and give us feedback.
Mitt78
Sanford and Son was my Sesame Street
I had the passenger side back completely out once. Good thing it happend backing out of the driveway. I swear I heard the nut and washers fall off when I was running 70 down the highway. Not flipping the pin may have saved me.Basically, they swap out the top hat and change the angle of the reservoir routing to make it fit. It's actually quite simple but yields some stellar benefits.
And yes, I'll be doing a review on both the Fox setup and Accutune once it all arrives. Should be here in the next couple of days.
Truth be told, it was user install error. When we took out the UCA pivot bolt it was a pain in the dick like usual. It comes out the top (high side) of the UCA into the engine bay. I was told some guys put the bolt back in from the bottom because it's easier. While this is technically true; it's a really bad fucking idea. Why? Because if that nut backs off the pivot bolt is allowed to slide right out because it's facing downhill. If the bolt goes in from the top, that issue can't happen. Trust me, I know.
Drove home from Tyler Texas like this. Thought the truck felt a bit odd but I assumed it was just mud stuck in the wheels throwing off their balance. Got home and saw this...the nut, the entire bushing w/sleeve and washer on the other side were long gone. Scott overnighted parts to me for cheap.
I had the washers eat in to the bushings on my icons. The ones they sent me were smaller than the bushings and they really shouldn’t be.
How is the ride?
Mitt78
Sanford and Son was my Sesame Street
So far a lot better than the icons. Definitely handles rough roads smoothly. I haven’t put but maybe 30 miles on them.
I think I have the bushings flipped on the drivers side. I’m getting a popping sound when I go to full lock left turn and back to straight.
I think I have the bushings flipped on the drivers side. I’m getting a popping sound when I go to full lock left turn and back to straight.
italynstylion
Well-Known Member
Which bushing are you talking about? The heim joint at the bottom of the shock where it connects to the LCA? I know there's a correct way for that to go in but I've actually tried it both ways and never noticed a difference. How old are your LCA bushings? It's possible that could be part of the problem but if it truly wasn't an issue before I don't know why it would be now.
Mitt78
Sanford and Son was my Sesame Street
I’m almost positive it’s the bushings for the heim joint. The longer bushing goes to the front. If you have the shorter one at the front you end up with clearance issues with the swaybar. The longer bushing forces the bottom of the coilover back, changing the angle and giving you the needed clearance.
One of the best mods you can do
italynstylion
Well-Known Member
Ha! That's awesome.
This is....subjective. The truck handles WAY better with it on. I'll defend that to the death. Not as good for the off-roading though.
When my RTT is on I want the sway bar.
Mitt78
Sanford and Son was my Sesame Street
To me my FJ feels to have about the same amount of body roll, maybe a little less without the swaybar and new Toytecs as it did with the swaybar and blown Icons. Now I will agree that a swaybar will even further reduce body roll and improve handling.
I must say that the Radflo Toytecs are far more impressive than the Icons ever were. Now I just need to get some dirt under the tires. I may need to start planning a week long trip to BBNP and BBSP for early next year. Its been far too long since i was out there.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I took my swap bar off 10 years ago or more.. I don't recall how it handled back then. I just know that now it corners on its doorhandles... leaning WAY over.