Setting up Gears by ZUK

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Reviving this old thread because it looks to have some excellent information. I just bought 4.56 nitro gears front n rear for my 2010 Taco along with the tools to do the job myself. I have an 8.4" third, 8" elocker third, and an 8" front clamshell to play with as well. Once I get proficient at setting up gears and do my own with great success, I will offer my services to others. Oh and pics, cuz who doesn't like evidence.

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Nice! @taco4x4rar is the man to ask about gearing and axles if you have any questions.
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
Never done an IFS clamshell, not sure how you could accurately check backlash in one. Also don't remember how the pinion shims work on the yota thirds if they go under the pinion bearing or the race like the dana axles. But I would highly recommend getting some NEW setup bearings or races for the pinion, even with that clam style puller the bearings can only be pressed on and off so many times before they are junked. Also use solid collar spacers instead of the crush sleeves it's more tedious to set the preload but makes it much easier to swap yokes and pinion seals.
 

Texoma

IG: triplecchopshop
Never done an IFS clamshell, not sure how you could accurately check backlash in one. Also don't remember how the pinion shims work on the yota thirds if they go under the pinion bearing or the race like the dana axles. But I would highly recommend getting some NEW setup bearings or races for the pinion, even with that clam style puller the bearings can only be pressed on and off so many times before they are junked. Also use solid collar spacers instead of the crush sleeves it's more tedious to set the preload but makes it much easier to swap yokes and pinion seals.

I appreciate the pro tips. I've got the solid spacer for the rear, but opted not to for the front since it's pretty well protected from Rock bashing. I was thinking of taking my old bearings to use as set up bearings, not sure if it's a great idea since they're worn. I'm gonna tear down and reassemble the ones I have on the bench before I dig in to mine for some practice.
 

Texoma

IG: triplecchopshop
Shit got real. Pulled the diff last night after work so that this morn I can get a fresh start full of coffee and bacon, cheese, gauc, n salsa omelet.

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TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
love me some 8.4
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
So far so good, I am stuck trying to figure out how to get the large pinion bearing race out of the housing without damaging it.
And that is the reason why I don't really like doing our wheel bearings or building 3 members. The guys that do it all the time have make special jigs and fixtures to make it easy peazy.
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
So far so good, I am stuck trying to figure out how to get the large pinion bearing race out of the housing without damaging it.
Use a brass punch or drift and slowly work it out.
 

Texoma

IG: triplecchopshop
Use a brass punch or drift and slowly work it out.

I got it out after manning up and hitting it a little harder with the hammer n punch. This job went well yesterday. I got backlash set first try, and pinion depth in the acceptable range first try. Pinion bearing pre load took a few attempts, but luckily I used a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve. Got everything back together and test drove, truck has its power back now. Dropped the front diff out and got it disassembled last night, gonna get that done today, hopefully with the same success.

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Texoma

IG: triplecchopshop
Thank you, tedious indeed, but I think I grasp the concept behind everything involved fairly well.
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
I am certain you don't care but the only thing I would change is to dump the gasket and use the Expensive Stuff - ooops, I meant, Right Stuff. :)
 
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