What have you done to someone else's ride lately?

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Helped my nephew fix his audio system in his Subaru. My other nephew helped him put it in.

The ground wasn't hooked up to the radio.
His RCA cables were too long and causing interference.
His antenna cable wasn't hooked up to the radio.
His sub wiring was loose.
The fuse was like 30" away from his battery. I cut the power wire down to 17" and reinstalled it.

So after all that, we got him going again. His little Subaru is wicked quick and a manual so it's fun to drive.

sounds like the one nephew shouldn’t plan on a career in car Audio lol
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Oil dipstick tube repair for my buddies son’s cobalt
25E5B5C7-2FB8-482B-83DD-A487F86C2591.jpeg
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Indeed. I agree.

On topic, I changed the serpentine belt on my brother-in-law's '08 Tundra with the 5.7L. Took a couple of pictures from above and below to make sure we got it routed correctly and got it done in about a half hour. I did notice that the tensioner was not smooth like it should be. He asked if that would be a problem and I told him that I didn't know, but that it is supposed to be smooth. Would you rush out to replace it?

The replacement did fix a couple of noises that he was hearing upon startup and during driving. The old belt was pretty rough looking.

20200314_162607.jpg
 

Oswego

n00b
I'd assume any bumps like that will wear it quicker, but I''m no materials engineer.

They should sand off easily I would assume...

Whole lotta assuming and you know what that means lol
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
It took some digging to find the part numbers for the bolts, but I sent him an email with links to camelback for the tensioner, and the inner and outer bolts. The bolts are $1.05 each, so I recommended that he get them as well since there is a good chance of corrosion. For $2.10, that is cheap insurance.

So at this point, I've made my recommendation and even pointed him to the least expensive OEM parts. It is up to him to order the parts. You know that old saying about leading a horse to water.
 

Oswego

n00b
You gotta do the whole tension-er assembly or can you do just the pulley? I took the lazy way out and only did just the pulley on my Taco's tension arm.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
parts diagram only showed the tensioner assembly. I'm sure you could do just the pulley, but I understand the spring in the tensioner wears out over time. His is an 08 with 150k on the clock in NC where they salt the roads.
 

Oswego

n00b
parts diagram only showed the tensioner assembly. I'm sure you could do just the pulley, but I understand the spring in the tensioner wears out over time. His is an 08 with 150k on the clock in NC where they salt the roads.

Same for the Tacoma's - I just figured out the pully part # and just swapped that. Didn't know if it was the same BS on a Tundra, but Toyota being Toyota it is.

Sometimes I do not follow recommendations and sometimes the short cuts I take end up being dead ends lol

Good news now is I'm back to all stock OE sand sucking unsealed pulleys from the engine swap
 

Oswego

n00b
:devil-flip:

Good one lol

I left the 1% of the time for stupied shit ~ It happens

My pullies blew out due to mud and sand within 50k so I said screw all the labor for the arm.

My old Expolders arm blew out in my driveway at 200k. Pure luck it happened at home.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
:devil-flip:

Good one lol

I left the 1% of the time for stupied shit ~ It happens

My pullies blew out due to mud and sand within 50k so I said screw all the labor for the arm.

My old Expolders arm blew out in my driveway at 200k. Pure luck it happened at home.

So your Tacoma is your 1%. Makes sense it doesn't run.

Sorry man... couldn't resist.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Fuck.. straight for the jugular. LOL
 
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