What have you done to your ride lately?
- Thread starter jdmcq
- Start date
Looking to apply the update late Feb - mid March to fix the mobile issue.
How much work was that? I might need to replace the front bearings on my Tacoma.
It's stupid simple. You'll just need to have a 35mm socket to take off the CV axle nut and a 14mm (IIRC?) wrench to get the 4 bolts that connect the bearing to the spindle off. It's hard for the first one and then after that it's gravy. I can have it off and a new one back on in about 30mins now
Probably even easier for me then; my Tacoma is a PreRunner.
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Some folks do it less than 3 hrs, but don't replace the seal behind the spindle where the cv enters, that is a very crucial seal to help keep those bearings free of extra dirt/sand, also depends how much water exposure your truck has been through.
I'm a type A person with disassemble and reassemble because of being prior AH 64D crew chief, one side took over 4hrs, I have more photos on camera that show some of the extra steps I did
I'm a type A person with disassemble and reassemble because of being prior AH 64D crew chief, one side took over 4hrs, I have more photos on camera that show some of the extra steps I did
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
water and rust could have the bolts seized up, one side came easy, other side sat over night with PB blaster soaked in
TacoXpo
HOAX DENIER
It's stupid simple. You'll just need to have a 35mm socket to take off the CV axle nut and a 14mm (IIRC?) wrench to get the 4 bolts that connect the bearing to the spindle off. It's hard for the first one and then after that it's gravy. I can have it off and a new one back on in about 30mins now
I keep an extra in my cubby.
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
It's stupid simple. You'll just need to have a 35mm socket to take off the CV axle nut and a 14mm (IIRC?) wrench to get the 4 bolts that connect the bearing to the spindle off. It's hard for the first one and then after that it's gravy. I can have it off and a new one back on in about 30mins now
and a 17mm to remove the caliper
Found the horrible rattle under my 4R when I got home. Apparently the rubber exhaust hangers are sagging too much so the exhaust is rattling against the rear axle when stopped.
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
It's stupid simple. You'll just need to have a 35mm socket to take off the CV axle nut and a 14mm (IIRC?) wrench to get the 4 bolts that connect the bearing to the spindle off. It's hard for the first one and then after that it's gravy. I can have it off and a new one back on in about 30mins now
30min job in my book would not be a quality install. I would say that just replacing the hub assy not a difficult job, it's the extras or unknowns that can add time to replacing your parts.
Probably not bad at all, depending if you have any rust.
Replaced the passenger side parts; LCA, hub assy, seals, brakes, rotor, added grease injected in those Non-greaseable joints/boots and add Al Anti-Seize in between dust shield, hub assy, behind rotor, front mounting plate of rotor.
Old Parts
Tried to remove most of the rust/pits makes it easier to set seal.
lube outer seal and spindle with some lube
Two hard hits and it was set.
add small amount of grease where hub assy makes contact and reassemble
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
I've tried vatozone pads once. One trip to the desert and I put them in the trash. I hope your experience is different. ...and granted, I think I have a mini trophy truck.
but this is their premium brake pads and the most expensive crap pads guaranteed up to 400 stops.
Taco Loco
Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
I bought their top of the line house brand. They were broken in on the street for a week or two. Smoked them in the desert. I've suffered some fade from the Green Stuff I use but nothing like the Vato experience. I am sure they would be fine in normal driving.
hauling trailers and stopping is what burns mine out
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Fridge looks good Blake. Looking forward to seeing how you mount it. Are you doing a back area storage dealio with the slide out?
balakay
BabyMax
Yep. The slide will be mounted in the cargo area. I'm not willing to drill holes through my floor to bolt it in like a lot of people seem to be planning to do. So my plan is to cut a piece of 3/4" MDF that will fit the cargo area and use carriage bolts coming up from the bottom to mount the slide to the MDF. If necessary (and probably even if not) I'll have a way to tie the MDF into the stock tie down points so I don't have to worry about it trying to flip forward when I have the fridge slid all the way out. Then I'll use roll on bedliner on the wood so it doesn't stand out so bad and won't let stuff slide around when loaded. That's this weekend's project. Along with getting power ran back to it.