What have you done to your ride lately?

MatthewMay1

amateur professional
The unit bearings in these Toyota's are a joke, id just replace if they have over 50k on them.

Another way I've tested is braking. Does the first time you hit the pedal after driving for a while feel mushy? Then immediately after feel firm? That's the play in the bearing causing the calipers to excessively retract.

Feeling the dust cap is a dead giveaway though.
Dust cap on the hub? I've never liked how the brakes feel on my truck, but I don't think they're doing what you describe
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
My thought is that if it was a wheel bearing I would 1) hear it whirring while I drive, 2) feel some friction when I spin the wheel off the ground, or 3) observe a wiggle in the wheel in every direction and not just at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions. Not sure how else to diagnose the problem.

I had a bearing going out on my 4Runner. It was a pretty decent growl from that side.
 

MatthewMay1

amateur professional
Bring your truck down, we can figure out what's going on.
Been talking to some guys on TW who I believe aren't asshats and I think the consensus is that I need to replace inner and outer tie rods and check the steering rack bushings. Supposedly they're cheap and easy enough to do.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Outer tie rods are easy - yes. Inner tie rods - your experience may vary. I would just have a shop swap them and do the alignment right there. Easier in the long run considering the scope of work. I swapped my outer tie rods and spent a bit of time getting the steering lined up good enough to drive to the alignment shop without any excitement.
 

balakay

BabyMax
Tie rods arent too bad. Just do both inners and routers at once. That way you can pull yours off as one assembly and put the new ones together to match them. Then screw the whole thing o to the steering rack. Steering rack bushings aren't fun because Toyota engineers are retarded. But once you get the middle bolt out theres really nothing to it.
 

MatthewMay1

amateur professional
Yeah it was explained to me that I should do both inners and outers at the same time because I can match the lengths to get it close to how it was so I can drive to the alignment shop. Haven't even looked at the bushings so I don't know what condition they are in. I was told to jack the truck up and have someone wiggle the wheels while I watch the rack to see if it moves
 

balakay

BabyMax
Yeah it was explained to me that I should do both inners and outers at the same time because I can match the lengths to get it close to how it was so I can drive to the alignment shop. Haven't even looked at the bushings so I don't know what condition they are in. I was told to jack the truck up and have someone wiggle the wheels while I watch the rack to see if it moves

How many miles does your truck have? If you've never changed them, they probably need it. I changes mine around 120k IIRC because they were shot. I'm chasing them again now at 149k because I did it wrong the first time and one of them is trashed again. Just changing them all because they come as a kit and it's only like $20.
 

MatthewMay1

amateur professional
How many miles does your truck have? If you've never changed them, they probably need it. I changes mine around 120k IIRC because they were shot. I'm chasing them again now at 149k because I did it wrong the first time and one of them is trashed again. Just changing them all because they come as a kit and it's only like $20.
125,ooo
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
He has a 1st gen. Way better than the shitty bearings the 2nd gens got.

Dust cap on the hub? I've never liked how the brakes feel on my truck, but I don't think they're doing what you describe

Disregard the dust cap then. But the theory is the same. If the hub assembly is heating up more than normal, that is a sign the bearing is going out and you are getting metal on metal contact.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
My bearing on the passenger side failed on the highway. It sucked ass. My symptoms were the mushy brakes, wasn't really making any abnormal noises. I had no idea it was a failed bearing, I was thinking my master cylinder was bad. After it finally catastrophically failed and I heard the bearing crumble to dust on the highway, I limped home at 15 mph and replaced it in my driveway, went for a test drive and the mushy pedal went away. I googled it and found that a few others found a failed bearing with the same symptoms.

12509399_10109992307268024_251934506822073119_n.jpg
 

MatthewMay1

amateur professional
Wow, I think I'll start with tie rods since those don't have to be pressed in. Seems like an easier process to replace the tie rods, although I haven't looked up how to do it just yet.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Neither wheel feels to be any hotter than the other.

How would I identify a bad bearing vs bad tie rods?
Bad tie rod would feel like your steering input has a lag to it or excessive play in your steering wheel.

Bad bearing would be vibes, squealing, shaking while braking, etc...
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Had some fun under the truck last night.

20190520_172128.jpg

20190520_172525.jpg

Installed the Cardone HD CV Axle. Supposedly the only difference between it and the regular CV is the boot quality. Initial impression is good. Install was straight forward with no hiccups. Has the edges to help with installation.

I did use calipers to measure the diameter of the steel and found the Cardone to be smaller than the OEM.

OEM: 1.36"
Cardone HD: 1.25"
 
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