What have you done to your ride lately?

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
My only complaint with the ICONs are the open top hat - which I have dealt with. Their strongest point - right out of the box they have been the best off road shocks I've had right out of the box.
 

Boomtacoma01

Tommy want wingy..
My OME set up rides great and the price definitely beats all you ballers. Lol. My Kings were nice when I had them I had close to 70k on my 08 and 09 when I pulled them for a rebuild and ended up selling them before I reinstalled them.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Just to clarify, the ride was fine for the price. I just didn't like the rear shocks, they didn't absorb enough impact for me. I feel that Jason's Bilstein setup rides nicer than my OME setup did.
 

Oswego

n00b
Just to clarify, the ride was fine for the price. I just didn't like the rear shocks, they didn't absorb enough impact for me. I feel that Jason's Bilstein setup rides nicer than my OME setup did.

I got the same impressions after riding in a few friends trucks. Ass end was bucking all over. Had to slow down on whoop trails. The good thing is they can actually carry a load in the bed.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
First cut is done

IMG_20160605_121013095.jpg
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
I would highly recommend you bob the rear first before you start the dovetail doesn't have to be fully welded but it certainly makes lining up the floor and besides a he'll of a lot easier
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Pretty much doing it like that. Cutting the rear off for bobbing, bring in for doving, then putting the modified ends back on to finish bobbing. Then tubbing the rear fenders before finishing everything. Trying to do it as smoothly as possible.
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
I would put the bobbed end back on and tack it then measure your pie cuts out of the floor and I would likely leave it tacked while cutting/pulling the sides together then do all the welding. Depending on how much you cut out in the dovetail tail you may not even need to tub the fender wells
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
I am still debating what I am going to do with the ends. The driver's side end by the tail light is dented in pretty bad. I am debating finding a different end or cutting this one open enough so as to pop out the dents I can. I do not want to make this thing show room nice but would like it to look pretty decent when I am done. At this point it looks like I am going to bring in the inner fender 5.75" so the overall bob will be ~14".

My current thoughts are centered on this. I am thinking I need to make cuts where the red lines are so as to bend the side panel and have a smooth transition for the dove tail.

13396724_1120391394687535_910624133_o.jpg
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Don't worry about the tail light. You're gonna smash it in at some point in the future. Just mount the brake lights to a bar or tailgate if you need em.
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
Worked on the RTT bed rack that I got from @SecretSquirrel . The angle mounts were full of rust so I sanded it down and hit it with a few coats of spray paint. I’m going to end up cutting the mounts and welding in a 5” extension to make the rack flush with the roof of my Tacoma. The reason being is I want to be able to use the awning I have for the CVT tent and it needs to be higher so my ARB awning will work.

Before
20160605_131208.jpg


After (started spraying paint before realizing I needed to take a pic)
20160605_133523.jpg


Forgive the mess in the back. All that stuff is waiting to be organized and stored in my garage.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Hopefully the dovetail will result in a lot less body-on-tree action. I am long term thinking of brake/turn signals as I would like to get it street legal again as some point.
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
Hmm not what I was thinking on the dovetail, my thoughts were to start at the B-pillar with the dovetail. But not being a truck there's no just any great places to start the pie cuts
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Hmm not what I was thinking on the dovetail, my thoughts were to start at the B-pillar with the dovetail. But not being a truck there's no just any great places to start the pie cuts

Yeah; I went through about 5 different options and none of them played out easily with the body panels and passenger area. I want to retain the passenger area so starting the dove before the passengers would be tough. This will give me a nice dove and retain passenger seats. Bending the sides at the narrow area also makes it less cutting / welding. Hopefully it makes it harder to screw up as well.

I still might move the bend point forward another 2 inches but where it is now has a nice brace I would like to leave alone.
 

taco4x4rar

Well-Known Member
Man that's gonna be a bitch to line up after the cut good luck I'd cut everything about an inch long and try to overlap your joints. That way you don't end up trying to fill any gaps if the cuts don't line up perfect
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
I am leaving about a 1/2" extra on each side of the cut. I am hoping this goes easier than it looks but I am starting to fully realize why I do not see that many beautiful dove tailed 4Runners. Bobbing is stupid simple compared to dove tailing.

Update:
IMG_20160606_190100085.jpg

I have some room for mating this line together. Good news is it will end up covered by bed liner.
 
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Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Brian Baker had the slickest bobbed and doved 4Runner I've ever seen. Simply perfect.

But that is looking good man!
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Thanks; hopefully I will learn a lot on the driver's side and the passenger side will go quick and easy. Once I get to the welding part I will feel better I think.
 

balakay

BabyMax
Took a bunch of measurements and spent a bunch of money on parts to replace all my suspension hangers and get the brakes working on my 84. I'll be stretching the frame 3" up front and 4" out back to get a total wheel base of around 110". Hopefully a little more. I would be happy if it turned out about 112"-114". The goal is to have it running by Jambo next year but I'm only going to have a week to get all the frame modifications done and the axles back under it. Should be completely doable. Still need to source some 2"x3"x.25" tubing to build the front frame section out of. My normal supplier only carries 1/8" wall. I'm going to call around this week and find somewhere local that has it. Pretty sure I already have everything I'm going to need (or it's on order) other than brake lines and driveshafts which I'll have to do after everything is in its final place and I can get some definite measurements.
 

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
Still just a little off but for now it is tacked enough I can start better fitment. I had to recruit my sandwich maker to become shop help; probably going to cost me a favor or two. I cannot complain too much though as this is a big step. My plan worked right; but I should have just cut out the wheel well completely to begin with. It would have made fitting x10 easier and none of it matches up level anyways.

IMG_20160607_210244290.jpg
IMG_20160607_210253449.jpg
 
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