Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Nice looking rack! Words that have got me slapped more than once.
What kind of shavings were coming out? Aluminum the whole way?Drilled some holes in the roof. Fuck the roof is thick in the drip rails. Probably 1/2" or more.
I will get some better pics this week but it's up and mounted. Very secure and really pleased with how it turned out.
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Kryptonite.I doubt its aluminum, its a Toyota and not a Ferd.
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Well, picked up a new rig over the weekend! I’ll start a build thread for it, with some items that are planned.
Drove it home from Houston, and it did great! I couldn’t be happier.
I have a core now for anyone looking into locking their front end. The Tacoma’s days are limited starting tomorrow.
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"Upgraded" the factory speakers in the front and installed some old dynamat alternative stuff.
Even though the magnet on the Kenwood is significantly bigger than the factory and the woofer is polypropelene (or however you spell it), I can't really tell much of a difference in sound quality. The mids are better, but I am completely underwhelmed by the Kenwoods. I know they aren't top of the line, but figured anything would be better than stock....I was wrong. Probably going to be pulling the new ones out and returning.
On that note, I'm open for suggestions. I don't have to "feel" the bass, but I'd at least like to be able to hear it.
Can't see the pictures (not sure why). What all have you upgraded over stock? Headunit still OEM? Size of the magnet really doesn't matter till you really start moving some air with big cones. At that point it's all about control.On that note, I'm open for suggestions. I don't have to "feel" the bass, but I'd at least like to be able to hear it.
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"Upgraded" the factory speakers in the front and installed some old dynamat alternative stuff.
Even though the magnet on the Kenwood is significantly bigger than the factory and the woofer is polypropelene (or however you spell it), I can't really tell much of a difference in sound quality. The mids are better, but I am completely underwhelmed by the Kenwoods. I know they aren't top of the line, but figured anything would be better than stock....I was wrong. Probably going to be pulling the new ones out and returning.
On that note, I'm open for suggestions. I don't have to "feel" the bass, but I'd at least like to be able to hear it.
DSP: In order to optimize the sound quality, you can use the unit's DSP to set the type of vehicle, speaker sizes & locations, listening distances, and x-over points. You can also choose to bypass the head unit's DSP feature.
- Car Type: Select your car type to automatically set the delay time of each speaker for timing adjustment of sound output of each channel to have the highest surround effect. Choose from Compact, Full Size Car, Wagon, Mini Van, SUV, or Off
- Listening Position + Digital Time Alignment: For a better sound-stage you can select your optimal listening position. You can choose from All, Front Left, Front Right or Front. You can also select to manually fine tune the sound stage, using Digital Time Alignment (DTA) by selecting the distance (0-20') for each individual speaker in the vehicle compared to your listening position.
- Rear Speaker Location: You can indicate the location of your vehicle's Rear speakers. Choose from Door, Rear Deck, 2nd Row, or 3rd Row.
- Speaker Size: You are able to select which size speakers are in your vehicle.
- Tweeter: Small, Medium, Large, or None
- Front & Rear: 3.5", 4", 4.75", 5", 6.5", 6.75", 7", 4x6", 5x7", 6x8", 6x9", 7x10" or None
- Subwoofer: 6.5", 8", 10", 12", 15" or greater, None
- High Pass & Low Pass Crossovers: Allows you to set high-pass and low-pass crossovers for a standard Tweeter, Front, Rear, and Subwoofer speaker setup.
- Tweeter: set high pass filter (HPF) for your tweeters
- Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
- Front & Rear: independently set high pass filter (HPF) for your front & rear speakers
- Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
- Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
- Sub: set low pass filter (LPF) for unit sub out
- Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
- Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
- Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
You da man!Yeah it sounds like a tuning adjustment is really all you need. Many headunits have a "loudness" button that's intended to help weak stock speakers sound better. It's shunned when using high end speakers that don't need it but for stock stuff it can actually improve things quite a bit.
Below is the feature set from your unit. If I had to guess, the speaker size is set to "small" or the crossover isn't set low enough and thus the unit simply isn't sending the speakers bass to play.
Are you near Dallas? I'd happily take a look at it and spend some time with the measurement mic to see if we can get it sounding right.