What have you done to your ride lately?

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
I even cleaned the inside of my truck... something I have not done in over a year. Tidied up a few things in the cab (like two missing little cap head screws holding my winch control panel in place). Will be swapping out the Kenwood TM271 for a TM281 tonight as well.
Proud of you bby
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
2M radio is swapped out.. I'm done for today. Will tackle the bed tomorrow.

IMG_4876.jpg
 

tex

That's Mr Asshole to you
So on Sunday I washed my truck and while doing so I noticed the front of the gas tank skid was bent and pushing into the tank a little.
Took it off and used BFH and all good. Ground down the bare spots and hit it with paint.
Now here is the part I need some help with. The skid attaches by 3 hangers at 3 corners. Those are all good. The 4th corner attaches to the frame with 3 screws that go into factory threaded holes in the frame. The stock skid uses the same holes. Well...2 of the 3 holes had the threaded bolt on the inside of the frame are broke off and I can only attach that corner with 1 bolt.
Boxed frame does not allow access to get a bolt on the inside. Any suggestions on a fix for that?
 

Anathollo

Armorall is my choice of lube
Staff member
So on Sunday I washed my truck and while doing so I noticed the front of the gas tank skid was bent and pushing into the tank a little.
Took it off and used BFH and all good. Ground down the bare spots and hit it with paint.
Now here is the part I need some help with. The skid attaches by 3 hangers at 3 corners. Those are all good. The 4th corner attaches to the frame with 3 screws that go into factory threaded holes in the frame. The stock skid uses the same holes. Well...2 of the 3 holes had the threaded bolt on the inside of the frame are broke off and I can only attach that corner with 1 bolt.
Boxed frame does not allow access to get a bolt on the inside. Any suggestions on a fix for that?
Do you have room to drill out the broken bolts and re-tap them?
I've used a DeWalt version of this on my nephews truck and it worked. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07122KD3...olid=2YRYTKNHAHKWJ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
Tap new threads with larger size, then paint mount location and new bolt different color from the others.

what size bolt?
 

tex

That's Mr Asshole to you
The threads were just nuts on the inside of the frame. The nuts broke off. Pretty sure the frame is too thin to tap for threads
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
The threads were just nuts on the inside of the frame. The nuts broke off. Pretty sure the frame is too thin to tap for threads

Not sure how much room you have, post a pic of the area.

You could drill out hole a bit bigger.

Drill hole on small metal plate, width of frame, weld a grade 8.8+ or sae nut to the plate, tac plate to frame with nut within the frame.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Just get a fabricator to weld it to the frame and never touch it again :D

So I decided to go ahead and order the other Dorman LCA. It has the LBJ and new bushings already installed. I'm sure it isn't as good as OEM, but I'm hopeful that new Dorman will be superior to worn the F out OEM. I can't afford to go down to 1 vehicle while I take the OEM LCAs off and go have the OEM bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in. So I'm going to be the guinea pig on just how well the Dorman LCAs hold up. Also ordered new hardware to attach them since I'm going to have to cut the old out. Decided to go OEM for that since all the aftermarket stuff that I've seen looks really cheap.

Once those are in, I can take my time and have the OEM ones reconditioned with all new rubber.
 

tex

That's Mr Asshole to you
Not sure how much room you have, post a pic of the area.

You could drill out hole a bit bigger.

Drill hole on small metal plate, width of frame, weld a grade 8.8+ or sae nut to the plate, tac plate to frame with nut within the frame.
Welding a nut to plate and welding the plate to the frame is what I just got done talking to @achirdo about.
Now to figure out a time to get up his way.
 

tex

That's Mr Asshole to you
You still have spare stick nuts from the slider install?
I do and actually tried to get 1 in the frame to reach but no luck.
I will probably use those nuts and have Adam weld those to the plate. Also going to drill out the hole in the frame a little bigger so the new nut fits in there.
 

Taco Loco

Tired and Lazy, married to ‘The Laundry Fairy’
I do and actually tried to get 1 in the frame to reach but no luck.
I will probably use those nuts and have Adam weld those to the plate. Also going to drill out the hole in the frame a little bigger so the new nut fits in there.

And use a much lesser grade bolt so you don't run into this problem again.
 

Oswego

n00b
Just get a fabricator to weld it to the frame and never touch it again :D

So I decided to go ahead and order the other Dorman LCA. It has the LBJ and new bushings already installed. I'm sure it isn't as good as OEM, but I'm hopeful that new Dorman will be superior to worn the F out OEM. I can't afford to go down to 1 vehicle while I take the OEM LCAs off and go have the OEM bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in. So I'm going to be the guinea pig on just how well the Dorman LCAs hold up. Also ordered new hardware to attach them since I'm going to have to cut the old out. Decided to go OEM for that since all the aftermarket stuff that I've seen looks really cheap.

Once those are in, I can take my time and have the OEM ones reconditioned with all new rubber.

Hindsight being 20/20....... I would of purchased them if they were available when I did mine. Now if I had $$$ and was looking back I would of just gotten TC LCA's like I have now.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Got both LCAs replaced on the truck last night. The alignment cam that i wasn't able to get out using a press a few weeks back came out without having to be cut.

The Duralast/Dorman LCAs feel nice and smooth and the clunk is gone. Getting alignment done today.

Only downside is that now that the clunking from the front is gone, I'm noticing the squeak from my Dakars a lot more.

IMG_20181026_162032.jpg
IMG_20181026_162321.jpg
IMG_20181026_162330.jpg
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
So on Sunday I washed my truck and while doing so I noticed the front of the gas tank skid was bent and pushing into the tank a little.
Took it off and used BFH and all good. Ground down the bare spots and hit it with paint.
Now here is the part I need some help with. The skid attaches by 3 hangers at 3 corners. Those are all good. The 4th corner attaches to the frame with 3 screws that go into factory threaded holes in the frame. The stock skid uses the same holes. Well...2 of the 3 holes had the threaded bolt on the inside of the frame are broke off and I can only attach that corner with 1 bolt.
Boxed frame does not allow access to get a bolt on the inside. Any suggestions on a fix for that?

I'd drill it out completely and weld one of these in

Fix it Weld Washers, Set of 6

I have a pack of 50 of these I bought years ago and have found many uses for them over the years

McMaster-Carr
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I'd drill it out completely and weld one of these in

Fix it Weld Washers, Set of 6

I have a pack of 50 of these I bought years ago and have found many uses for them over the years

McMaster-Carr

Drill it out and get the fix it weld washers as mentioned, then weld a 3/8th's nut to the back side... then weld that into the hole. This way you have something you can thread a bolt into.
 
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