What have you done to your ride lately?
- Thread starter jdmcq
- Start date
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Buy some RCV’s
tex
That's Mr Asshole to you
Not for $2K. I would regear before spending that much on CVs
Silverback
Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
You should do that anyhow.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
My theory on aftermarket CVs was that they are a cheap fuse. For $60 I can get OEM replacements. That's around 33 replacement axles compared to one set of RCVs. I've only broken one OEM CV and I was hammering down after hammering a few beers down in double low. But yes, regear and hammer down is the message here
I think in your case, if you were to run RCV's then you'd be moving the weak link up to your diff since you are running dual cases and regeared.
I am okay with the weak link being an easy and cheap to replace part.
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
Make sure you weld on those frame plates!
Oswego
n00b
I kept both of my cores when I bought from them.
Watch out for those red boots. If it's the same brand red boot they have been selling for a few years - I have a buddy (used to be a member here) who did not like them and also said they were junk in a year and to stick with OE.
tex
That's Mr Asshole to you
Good to know. I like the ribs on them and how they are spaced out but will probably but 2 OE boot kits.
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Wheel bearing good?
My Cardone CV came while we were out of town. I'll get a side-by-side pic of it with the OEM that comes off when I do the install. I didn't order a new axle seal...maybe I should have done that, but I need the truck tomorrow and don't want to wait. Hopefully the old one still looks good.
Planning on ordering the kit to do the inner and outer from Camelback. The prices were better than Olathe and the shipping was less.
MatthewMay1
amateur professional
My thought is that if it was a wheel bearing I would 1) hear it whirring while I drive, 2) feel some friction when I spin the wheel off the ground, or 3) observe a wiggle in the wheel in every direction and not just at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions. Not sure how else to diagnose the problem.
Drive around for awhile, park and put your hand against the rim. If one rim is way hotter than the other rim then the bearing is bad on the hot one.
MatthewMay1
amateur professional
I’ll do that, thanks
CowboyTaco
Well-Known Member
Works best if you have a infrared thermometer rather than by hand. Don't drive too long also since both rims will get too hot to touch.
MatthewMay1
amateur professional
Neither wheel feels to be any hotter than the other.
How would I identify a bad bearing vs bad tie rods?
PSU Taco85
Well-Known Member
The unit bearings in these Toyota's are a joke, id just replace if they have over 50k on them.
Another way I've tested is braking. Does the first time you hit the pedal after driving for a while feel mushy? Then immediately after feel firm? That's the play in the bearing causing the calipers to excessively retract.
Feeling the dust cap is a dead giveaway though.
Another way I've tested is braking. Does the first time you hit the pedal after driving for a while feel mushy? Then immediately after feel firm? That's the play in the bearing causing the calipers to excessively retract.
Feeling the dust cap is a dead giveaway though.
balakay
BabyMax
He has a 1st gen. Way better than the shitty bearings the 2nd gens got.