Winchcraft: The Dark Art

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
I still have all the extra hardware and stuff from when I installed the bumper and it looks like it came with a relocation kit. Score!

1639141725684.png


So that just leaves the fairlead. I'm leaning toward the offset hawse. The Aries at AutoZone is half the cost of the Warn or the Factor 55. None of those extend the rope out past the edges of the bumper. Looks like the 1.5 Factor 55 that does isn't offered in the offset variety. So that takes me back to the drawing board.

I'm kind of leaning toward the Warn hawse offset fairlead. It is double the cost of the aries, but the aries specifies for "light duty." Not being 100% sure what that means, I don't know that I want to test it. I'm sure it is fine, but I don't like that little "what if" in the back of my head. Granted, that what if could also apply to the Warn or F55...
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
I still have all the extra hardware and stuff from when I installed the bumper and it looks like it came with a relocation kit. Score!

View attachment 40259

So that just leaves the fairlead. I'm leaning toward the offset hawse. The Aries at AutoZone is half the cost of the Warn or the Factor 55. None of those extend the rope out past the edges of the bumper. Looks like the 1.5 Factor 55 that does isn't offered in the offset variety. So that takes me back to the drawing board.

I'm kind of leaning toward the Warn hawse offset fairlead. It is double the cost of the aries, but the aries specifies for "light duty." Not being 100% sure what that means, I don't know that I want to test it. I'm sure it is fine, but I don't like that little "what if" in the back of my head. Granted, that what if could also apply to the Warn or F55...

a fairlead is something that you buy once, don’t cheap out on it is all I will say. Not saying the cheaper ones won’t get the job done, but for me without seeing each in person I wouldn’t trust the “light duty” one.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I like the CustomSplice stuff as well. I have their rope and fairlead on my Warn Pullzall. But their offfset looks nice for a bit less.


Disregard.. thing is sold out.
 

TacoXpo

HOAX DENIER
I like the CustomSplice stuff as well. I have their rope and fairlead on my Warn Pullzall. But their offfset looks nice for a bit less.


Disregard.. thing is sold out.
I say buy a Bridgeport and machine your own. Not because it's the right thing to do. Just because I want one! lol
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
a fairlead is something that you buy once, don’t cheap out on it is all I will say. Not saying the cheaper ones won’t get the job done, but for me without seeing each in person I wouldn’t trust the “light duty” one.

Yeah, that's kind of where I'm at. Hate to spend $50 on something just to have to buy the $100 later. Plus, a new rope if that one were to damage the rope somehow.

I called Warn to see if they had a better solution, or if they would allow me to trade the one that came with my winch. The guy told me that ARB uses their stuff constantly, so to call them. I called ARB and they have a kit that goes with my bumper. It pushes the fairlead out and up so that I don't have any worry about clearing the sides of the bumper. It's about the same price as a new fairlead and I think that is the best option. The price is a little steep for what it is.

Kit is the ARB Hawse Fairlead spacer kit - 3500600

$60.. in stock

That is the same "light duty" one that I referenced before.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
Didn't notice it was the same. Its shown being used on Jeeps so I think it would be fine. Second review of it states they are using it on an ARB bumper.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Got the winch hooked up and installed Friday night. I was able to get it in without taking the bumper off, which was nice! I just had to spool out some of the rope so that it didn't get cut while pushing the winch up into the bumper....it was a tight fit and narrower in the middle. Had to get my wife to come help me lift it up and hold it into place.

Got everything hooked up and nothing. Winch won't spool, remote has a blue light on that appears to indicate a wireless connection. There was a ground wire that wasn't long enough to reach the ground on the winch since I relocated the control box. Tried a temporary ground to the bumper, but I'm guessing the powder coat stopped it from making a connection. Also, the control box bracket that came with the bumper had a different bolt pattern to hold the control box. So I marked it where it needed to be drilled out and set it in the vice so that I could drill it out the following morning.

Following morning I drilled out the bracket and made a new ground wire. Everything works! I needed to be done by 9AM in order to make it to a trailhead to run Musterground Road. It was raining and several parts of that trail are red clay mud. I finished the winch at 9:30 and still had to reattach the lower portion of the bumper. Lost one of the nuts in the process. I had to walk away at that point. I was pissed that I missed the trail and one of those specialty nuts that fits into the bumper was causing me further delay.

1640005219128.png


I do not plan to have the rope where it is in the pic. I don't want it exposed that much, but I have it there for the time being. I need to either find a protective sleeve, or get something to hold the hook in place.
 

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
Looks great! A factor 55 winch hook will allow the remainder of that line to stay spooled up in the bumper.

One thing you should check because it bit a friend of mine, is that you clocked the motor and ensured the drain holes are free, I know on the ARB bumper the mounting feet sit horizontal against the front of the bumper so typically the winch is clocked from the factory with the drain holes facing down. If you get into some water, you'll be replacing the motor in short order if you have not verified the drain hole orientation.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Looks great! A factor 55 winch hook will allow the remainder of that line to stay spooled up in the bumper.

One thing you should check because it bit a friend of mine, is that you clocked the motor and ensured the drain holes are free, I know on the ARB bumper the mounting feet sit horizontal against the front of the bumper so typically the winch is clocked from the factory with the drain holes facing down. If you get into some water, you'll be replacing the motor in short order if you have not verified the drain hole orientation.

I tried. The terminals on the winch don't allow for the motor to be clocked. I removed the cover and looked for screws or bolts that hold it in place. I didn't see an obvious way to adjust it, so I just put the cover back on the way that it came....with the drain hole to the side. I suppose I should call and ask about that, but pulling it back out at this point would be a royal PITA.

I did clock the side with the clutch release.

Edit: Googled it. Dammit. Guess I'll be trying to clock it in place.

Edit2: the way the electrical posts are oriented will still allow it to drain, so I'm good.
 
Last edited:

PSU Taco85

Well-Known Member
I tried. The terminals on the winch don't allow for the motor to be clocked. I removed the cover and looked for screws or bolts that hold it in place. I didn't see an obvious way to adjust it, so I just put the cover back on the way that it came....with the drain hole to the side. I suppose I should call and ask about that, but pulling it back out at this point would be a royal PITA.

I did clock the side with the clutch release.

Edit: Googled it. Dammit. Guess I'll be trying to clock it in place.

Edit2: the way the electrical posts are oriented will still allow it to drain, so I'm good.

That's good! Just figured I'd give you a heads up on it, would suck to find out that motor is full of water when you need it to work. The motor's aren't cheap either, I've replaced my buddies M8000 once before. Probably could have rebuilt it but Warn does sell the motor as a whole replacement rather than just the brushes and springs.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
Ok, so what's the best way to store the winch hook that came with the winch?

If I get it tight to where it would lay flat, it scratches the powder coat on the fairlead and doesn't lay flat. If I attach it to the factory tie down point, a lot of rope is exposed and rubs a ridge where the bumper skid plate attaches to the bumper. Neither of which is good for the rope. I've seen some rubber bumpers that hold the hook outward from the bumper, but those look kind of stupid and I've seen some "roller fairlead isolator" products that I don't see why they wouldn't work with a hawse fairlead.

I'm not ready to drop the money on a Factor55, so I'm trying to figure out the best/smartest way to "store" the hook that came with it.

Edit: Just found this. https://www.warn.com/removable-rope-sleeve-100330 Not sure why that never showed up in previous searches, but that might be the best option to protect the rope and just use the tie down point.
 
Last edited:

tx_shooter

It is not a war crime the first time.
Staff member
I went with an Agency 6 winch shackle. It is designed to lay flat and is a closed loop setup. Less chance of something going really bad.
 

Silverback

Lima Gulf Bravo Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
I have a 2" hitch receiver made by Agency 6 for the trailer. Very happy with its construction.
 

CowboyTaco

Well-Known Member
I went with an Agency 6 winch shackle. It is designed to lay flat and is a closed loop setup. Less chance of something going really bad.

I like the Agency 6 stuff that I've seen, but that's still over $100. Worth it in the end, but I'm trying to let my wallet recover from the winch and hawse fairlead spacer kit purchases.

I'm trying to figure out what to do with the one that came with it, unless TOR Santa sends me an Agency 6 winch shackle ;)
 

Oswego

n00b
I've been watching a good deal of international wheeling lately and all of them are getting away from using any sort or hard materials like hooks or d rings for connecting points.

They have all changed to soft shackles.

Makes sence. Lord knows anyone who has ever done some extraction has had a strap fail. Nothing like a d ring shooting back at you at warp speed while your in the middle of no where stuck.

Even shittybuilt is selling them for full line replacment. Got 98' lengths with monkey fists on them.

I would not invest in any metal hardware. Heck if you want a factor 55 I've got one never used lol
 

Oswego

n00b
There is a new Freedom winchline that doesn't have a hook on it.. just a built in soft-shackle on the end. Pretty slick! Just $$$


The really funny thing is that all the knots can be diy'd with some basic hand tools. Just lop off your old hooks and diy a loop or monkey fist.

I suspect a hammock guy, rigger, or sailor came up with these designs.

In hammock camping it's all typical common knowledge stuff we have been using for a decade. Same shit just smaller scale. Sailors using for decades. Riggers not so much due to liability/standards
 

Oswego

n00b
 
Top