2001 4Runner build/fix log

[tx_shooter]

After a lot of Google Fu work I located some greaseable bolts for the panhard bar. Hopefully this will eliminate the binding issue that is common with bushings. The Sonoran Steel setup uses a bushing with a metal sleeve for the bolt. I am thinking the bolt will be greaseable which will reduce friction in the bolt/sleeve; but I will probably need to drill a couple holes in the sleeve to allow for some grease to get between the sleeve and bushing. This should drastically reduce all binding. At this point I am going for the small upgrades to the rig.

 

[tx_shooter]

Greaseable bolts arrived yesterday and the new panhard bar setup should be here Wed at the latest. I am ready to no longer hear the clanking and have the extra "movement" on the rear axle.

Also an oil catch can arrived so I am going to pipe it inline between the PCV valve and the intake port. This will significantly cut down on the oil getting pushed into the hose and the supercharger.

 

[AlienXtx]

Yes it sure will. I need to install one on the ST, wish I knew wtf I did with the one off my Tacoma probably gave it to one of you. I got one on the way for my go kart

 

[Silverback]

Yes it sure will. I need to install one on the ST, wish I knew wtf I did with the one off my Tacoma probably sold it with the truck. I got one on the way for my go kart

FIFY

 

[AlienXtx]

Naa I pulled it off before I sold that turd, it was one Robby had made for me . Hell it might be around here somewhere.

 

[tx_shooter]

New panhard bar is installed with bushings and greasable bolts. It is very nice having a solid feel from the back axle again. Plus it is stupid quiet now.

 

[Oswego]

After a lot of Google Fu work I located some greaseable bolts for the panhard bar. Hopefully this will eliminate the binding issue that is common with bushings. The Sonoran Steel setup uses a bushing with a metal sleeve for the bolt. I am thinking the bolt will be greaseable which will reduce friction in the bolt/sleeve; but I will probably need to drill a couple holes in the sleeve to allow for some grease to get between the sleeve and bushing. This should drastically reduce all binding. At this point I am going for the small upgrades to the rig.

I had similar issues looking for the same products for my Taco's suspension. Funny how everyone tries to go with "lifetime" greased parts and people like us who want the stuff to actually last run the other way

 

[tx_shooter]

Installed a magnetic mic holder for my MXT275 handheld. The steering wheel needs some TLC next.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0153KY2GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[tex]

I got a nice steering wheel cover for a previous car. I had to sew it on but it was not that bad. Way better route than the slip on covers and way cheaper than a new wheel or a professional recover.

 

[tx_shooter]

The seats need to be rebuilt also. I am shopping around getting the seats and steering wheel done at the same time.

 

[tex]

That makes sense. Curious on what kind of quotes you get to redo the seats

 

[tx_shooter]

Had to take a TITS pic to day

 

[tx_shooter]

Making a few changes in the setup. The current Warn winch that is in the bumper I never cabled or put line on it. I am going to put that winch on the trail rig and a Smittybilt XRC on the DD. Last week in some of the river and bog bottom areas I came to the conclusion that if I was going to keep camping and exploring like that alone I needed more than the traction boards for self recovery. The boards have worked fine before but some of these spots were more than I cared to test with the boards. Everything has a limit.

So this morning the winch was ordered. Now to convince myself when I want to take the bumper off to mount it.

 

[Anathollo]

Making a few changes in the setup. The current Warn winch that is in the bumper I never cabled or put line on it. I am going to put that winch on the trail rig and a Smittybilt XRC on the DD. Last week in some of the river and bog bottom areas I came to the conclusion that if I was going to keep camping and exploring like that alone I needed more than the traction boards for self recovery. The boards have worked fine before but some of these spots were more than I cared to test with the boards. Everything has a limit.

So this morning the winch was ordered. Now to convince myself when I want to take the bumper off to mount it.

View attachment 33506

That's the hardest part for winch installations

 

[tx_shooter]

Yeah, already trying to put together a list of everything I can or should do while it is off.

 

[tx_shooter]

Also added a few more soft shackles to help round out options with the new winch. Next up at some point should be a snatch block.

 

[tx_shooter]

Decided to get a jump on installing the Smittybilt winch and replacing the grill this weekend. I am not crazy about the configuration of the spool where the terminals are down. I am going to check out clocking it to rotate the terminals away from the lowest position. I want to keep the terminals up and away from water if at all possible.

Side note - not real crazy about the abrasion marks in the powder coat on the spool.

I also replaced the old blacked out grill with a chrome grill to break up all the black on the front end.

Tomorrow will see the winch mounted into the bumper, wired for quick disconnect, and a lightbar mounted up on the bumper. Then the bumper put back on. That will be a nice chunk of work this weekend.

 

[tx_shooter]

Okay, I need a counter opinion before I get past the point of no return. The winch body fits but has many issues with the controller box and the plug port being on the side of the box. I picked this winch due to the load and low power draw for the rating. Now I just have to figure out how to shoe horn it into the Schrockworks bumper.

The first issue is that the bumper is designed to give almost no access to the winch or space for the winch controller box. My thought is to weld in a plate to mount the winch to in the "as designed" position and then relief cut the top plate to allow the top of the winch to come through. This is all 3/8s plate so there is already a good amount of strength in the bumper.

This will also allow me to use some of the other features built into the winch without excessive work to access the accessory power stud. It is not a big deal but a nice feature I would like to take advantage of.

So - am I crazy?

 

[Oswego]

I'd go with whatever set up is safer for quick easy access over its lifespan. Nothing wrong with a little modding if it saves you from jamming your hands in unsafe spots

 

[PSU Taco85]

Looks simple enough to clock the winch to get the power wires facing towards the back of the truck, I’d also clock the planetary side to get the freespool lever facing front. Is the shrockworks bumper designed to have a winch mounted “feet forward” position?