CowboyTaco's 2011 DCSB TRD Sport

[CowboyTaco]

Transmission skid has been installed.

I was somewhat disappointed that there were no instructions for the install, and there were a bunch of washers, lock washers, nuts and bolts. In the end, if you couldn't figure it out, you probably shouldn't wrench on your truck.

 

[CowboyTaco]

Also need to update the OP since I don't have the camper shell anymore.

Installed the CaliRaisedLED rear driver-side antenna mount that I purchased to mount an antenna with the camper shell. It didn't quite clear the shell, so I was either going to have to grind it or remove the shell. I opted to remove the shell after purchasing a vice to hold the mount while I ground off some. Selling the shell had more to do with going a different direction than it did with the mount not quite clearing the shell. Now I just need to re-run the coax for the antenna and get the CB hooked up again. The new mount should have a much better ground than what I had before. I'll have to snap a pic later, but it was as simple as pulling two bolts and reinstalling the same 2 bolts with the new mount sandwiched between them. Clearance on the tailgate is tight. Time will tell if it rubs any.

 

[Oswego]

Transmission skid has been installed.

View attachment 22803

I was somewhat disappointed that there were no instructions for the install, and there were a bunch of washers, lock washers, nuts and bolts. In the end, if you couldn't figure it out, you probably shouldn't wrench on your truck.

I hate to poo on allpoo, but I do not like that design. Way too close to the tranny IMHO. Will trap heat in the one area you really don't want it, if bent looks like it may impact the tranny (not sure), and will make your cross member the "catch point" in FW and even R. My cross member is already beat to crap and thats with skids fully protecting them. That catch point kills it for me. If I run over a log/rock/whatever and put pressure on the skid now the obstacle is trapped and I can't even back off it because it's almost a 90* angle at the front as well. I get this design will allow less "bending" but not at the cost of potentially getting stuck, wearing out the tranny prematurely, and not protecting the cross member at all.

I'd take it off, sell it, and save for an exhaust crossover thats higher then full flush skids. You need many more dings on that cross member and OE exhaust cross over to worry about a tranny skid at this point. Them babys look brand new.

IMHO I'd assume statistically that youll screw up your stock exhaust that hangs low right in the middle of the truck way before you impacted the tranny cover. Just my BS web wheeling opinion based on me always getting hung up right past that cross-member in the middle of our long wheelbased trucks on jeep or quad trails

In the end it doesn't matter so long as your happy. I need to get myself a trasfercase skid one of these days. That got lost years ago while at my buddys shop to be reinforced and extended.

 

[Silverback]

Yep.. if you dent that skip you are hitting your pan.

 

[CowboyTaco]

I hate to poo on allpoo, but I do not like that design. Way too close to the tranny IMHO. Will trap heat in the one area you really don't want it, if bent looks like it may impact the tranny (not sure), and will make your cross member the "catch point" in FW and even R. My cross member is already beat to crap and thats with skids fully protecting them. That catch point kills it for me. If I run over a log/rock/whatever and put pressure on the skid now the obstacle is trapped and I can't even back off it because it's almost a 90* angle at the front as well. I get this design will allow less "bending" but not at the cost of potentially getting stuck, wearing out the tranny prematurely, and not protecting the cross member at all.

I'd take it off, sell it, and save for an exhaust crossover thats higher then full flush skids. You need many more dings on that cross member and OE exhaust cross over to worry about a tranny skid at this point. Them babys look brand new.

IMHO I'd assume statistically that youll screw up your stock exhaust that hangs low right in the middle of the truck way before you impacted the tranny cover. Just my BS web wheeling opinion based on me always getting hung up right past that cross-member in the middle of our long wheelbased trucks on jeep or quad trails

In the end it doesn't matter so long as your happy. I need to get myself a trasfercase skid one of these days. That got lost years ago while at my buddys shop to be reinforced and extended.

I had the same thought about it being very close to the trans oil pan. It's a relatively narrow skid, so I don't think it will do too much in terms of heat retention.

I figure its better than what was there before and gives me some peace of mind. My plan will be to sell both skids together when i have the opportunity. I got both for a good price and the retail price has gone up since I bought the IFS skid. At the very least, i should be able to break even.

 

[Oswego]

My old hard drives blown thats got my pics so this is the best I could find on fakebook.

Exact spot I always got stock (high sided)...

hard to see in this pic but the only "catch" point is when you go in reverse and hit the IFS skid. Pretty smooth run going FW. Thats pretty important in sand and brush

I'm sure they will collect allot less rocks and mud though

here's one run's worth of rocks that got collected while skimming over sandy rocky obstacles that bottomed out on the skidz

 

[CowboyTaco]

My old hard drives blown thats got my pics so this is the best I could find on fakebook.

Exact spot I always got stock (high sided)...
View attachment 22805

hard to see in this pic but the only "catch" point is when you go in reverse and hit the IFS skid. Pretty smooth run going FW. Thats pretty important in sand and brush
View attachment 22806


I'm sure they will collect allot less rocks and mud though

here's one run's worth of rocks that got collected while skimming over sandy rocky obstacles that bottomed out on the skidz
View attachment 22807

That first pic looks way further back....like where the center support bearing would be located. This thing is right up behind the front wheels.

 

[Silverback]

true

 

[Oswego]

yea thats a little farther back... was rushing to post while working yesterday. Still high sided so same theories of the long wheelbase, and stock low points (exhaust/cross member apply).

If I had my old pics - I'd say about 70-90% of my stucks when I am solo were due to high siding so I got skidz then saved up and took care of the one leg tire fire issues from having a used and abused mechanical LSD rear.

 

[CowboyTaco]

So lets talk driveline angles....since no one responded to my post in the other thread. I have some vibrations that I believe to be a result of the working angle of the u-joints.

I measured the working angle of my center U-joint at 1.7 degrees using the clinometer meter on my phone. I have the OME center support spacer to reduce the angle already.

All of my knowledge on this comes from YouTube, so please correct any misinformation or fill in any blanks.

From what I understand, you want the working angle on all U-joints (at least on the Tacoma) to be under 1 degree. You also want the front one (transmission or xfer case) to essentially be 0, so that the driveshaft extends straight out from either the xfer case or trans. That said, it seems like if they were all under 1 degree, that's good enough. I was not able to get my phone flat on the flange at either the xfer case or rear driveshaft, so I don't trust the measurements that I got there.

but essentially, I got 1.2 at the xfer case, 7.0 on the front half of the driveshaft, 8.7 on the rear half of the driveshaft and 1.0 on the rear diff. Subtracting one from the other, that gives me working angles of 5.8 on the first u-joint, 1.7 on the middle, and 7.7 at the rear diff.

I want to install the D29XL AAL for the Dakar pack and have a new center pin for when I do. I'm thinking I should add a shim to the leaf pack when I do it. Most common seems to be a 3 degree shim.

I talked to Toytec and they basically told me that I should do the shim, but they wanted $15 to ship a $30 part. He then referred me to a local shop that might have the part in stock. So I called that local shop and he told me that 1.7* was fine and that I wouldn't see any improvement. Also, that he didn't keep the shim in stock.

Thoughts?
Should I add the shim?
Is there a better way of getting the angle on both flanges without removing the driveshaft completely?

 

[Taco Loco]

Add the center carrier bearing drop spacers and axle shims.

 

[Taco Loco]

Some folks have vibrations without the shims between 25-50mph, some have none, each truck is a bit different based on the age of the leafs and bed loads/equipment/rack or shell.

 

[Taco Loco]

If you have aftermarket leafs and they been on there for a couple years, just add the center spacers and I think you will be just fine.

 

[tx_shooter]

Add the center carrier bearing drop spacers and axle shims.

This is what I was thinking but do not know a whole lot about. I need to do some research on this myself as my Tacoma has a bit of driveshaft vibration at ~30 mph too.

 

[Anathollo]

If you have aftermarket leafs and they been on there for a couple years, just add the center spacers and I think you will be just fine.

This. I'm just running the carrier bearing spacer with Dakar leaf packs + AAL's and I have no vibes. The carrier bearing drop took care of the vibes I had from like ~25-30MPH that it had when I drove the truck off the dealership lot brand new.

But that being said, every truck is different thanks to our shittily built and rusty truck frames.

 

[Taco Loco]

This is what I was thinking but do not know a whole lot about. I need to do some research on this myself as my Tacoma has a bit of driveshaft vibration at ~30 mph too.

This. I'm just running the carrier bearing spacer with Dakar leaf packs + AAL's and I have no vibes. The carrier bearing drop took care of the vibes I had from like ~25-30MPH that it had when I drove the truck off the dealership lot brand new.

But that being said, every truck is different thanks to our shittily built and rusty truck frames.

@CowboyTaco

If installing new leafs with the added overload leaf, add shims and drop spacer, if the leafs are broken in, just adding in overload leaf just spacer should be good.

 

[AlienXtx]

Add the center carrier bearing drop spacers and axle shims.

This. It fixed my issue on my Tacoma

 

[tex]

I only ran the carrier spacer on my tacoma and had no issues running the same leaf set up you are doing.

 

[CowboyTaco]

Sorry if my post wasn't clear. I already have the center support bearing (commonly called carrier bearing) spacer and have the vibes.

Leaf pack has been on for several years. No constant weight on the back of the truck currently (shell was sold). D29XL AAL is new going to be installed on a well broken-in leaf pack.

So you think add the shim when I do the AAL?

 

[AlienXtx]

Yes