What have you done to your ride lately?

[Silverback]

Clean install!

 

[tx_shooter]

Thanks. I have a shielded cable to run to the back so I can have a cable port in back to run the radio from the rear hatch also.

 

[Silverback]

Is that an RJ45 connector? Did you run a long extension for it?

 

[tx_shooter]

It is and I am going to. I still need to do some sound deadening on the floor of the 4Runner so I am going to run it all then.

 

[CowboyTaco]

Removing old wiring always makes me happy

I'll add fixing old wiring to the list. I went to add a single switch last night and ended up tearing out a lot of my old wiring to redo it.

Ever look at something on your truck and think "now who the F would do that." followed by "has anyone else ever worked on my truck in this area?" followed by "nope. how could I have been so lazy / dumb?"

Well, that was me last night. I honestly have no idea how it happened, but the mic for my head unit was tangled in with the grounding wire for the DVD player and USB power outlet. The grounding wires were somehow wrapped around the steering wheel column and had become disconnected from their grounding point. Not a big deal because the USB power was disconnected because I didn't like that the LED light was on all the time and the ground for the DVD just allows the video to play when the truck is in motion. But it was still embarassingly ugly.

While I was that deep in, I decided to install a push button OEM style Mictuning switch that has been sitting in my truck for probably at least 2 years.

I'll go snap a pic in a minute. But what wire to I tap into to get the switch to illuminate? Figure I can tap into a wire on the fog light switch. I think its the green/white wire that I have sort of separated from the pack. I see on TW that a lot of people do an add a fuse.

And I want to put the switch right above the USB ports. They are direct to the battery so that a phone can charge even when the truck is off. However, I don't want them on all the time. Having the switch will allow me to kill the power when not in use. Of course, that means I'm going to have to drill a hole after confirming there is nothing above it, but I'll cross that bridge later.

 

[Anathollo]

I'll add fixing old wiring to the list. I went to add a single switch last night and ended up tearing out a lot of my old wiring to redo it.

Ever look at something on your truck and think "now who the F would do that." followed by "has anyone else ever worked on my truck in this area?" followed by "nope. how could I have been so lazy / dumb?"

Well, that was me last night. I honestly have no idea how it happened, but the mic for my head unit was tangled in with the grounding wire for the DVD player and USB power outlet. The grounding wires were somehow wrapped around the steering wheel column and had become disconnected from their grounding point. Not a big deal because the USB power was disconnected because I didn't like that the LED light was on all the time and the ground for the DVD just allows the video to play when the truck is in motion. But it was still embarassingly ugly.

While I was that deep in, I decided to install a push button OEM style Mictuning switch that has been sitting in my truck for probably at least 2 years.

I'll go snap a pic in a minute. But what wire to I tap into to get the switch to illuminate? Figure I can tap into a wire on the fog light switch. I think its the green/white wire that I have sort of separated from the pack. I see on TW that a lot of people do an add a fuse.

View attachment 23929

And I want to put the switch right above the USB ports. They are direct to the battery so that a phone can charge even when the truck is off. However, I don't want them on all the time. Having the switch will allow me to kill the power when not in use. Of course, that means I'm going to have to drill a hole after confirming there is nothing above it, but I'll cross that bridge later.

View attachment 23930

I quickly looked for a square rocker switch that had the ON/OFF switch build into it like this: USB Car Charger Waterproof QC30 USB Charger Socket Power Outlet Adapter with On Off Switch LED Indicator for 12V24V Car RV ATV Boat Marine Motorcycle - Newegg.com

Or this:

QC 3.0 USB Fast Charger Socket with Voltmeter & ON/OFF Switch for Car Motorcycle | eBay

But couldn't find anything that's square.

 

[CowboyTaco]

So in short, green and red 1 from the switch go to the accessory. Or, in this case, the DTRLs.

Red 2 gets connected to green and black gets connected to green/white.

I now have a fully functioning and much cleaner switch that dims with the rest of the dashboard.

I then moved the blank that I removed from above and placed it in the spot where the old switch lived.

 

[Anathollo]

Ordered five 285/70/17 Toyo A/T III for my truck. Should be here in a week. I got the P rated tires as well to save money and weight bc Lord knows I won't have time to do any serious wheeling for the next few years with kids

 

[balakay]

Ordered five 285/70/17 Toyo A/T III for my truck. Should be here in a week. I got the P rated tires as well to save money and weight bc Lord knows I won't have time to do any serious wheeling for the next few years with kids

I couldn't get myself to order the P rated ones. Though at the time I didn't know I'd be adding aftermarket wheels that weigh a shit ton.

 

[Silverback]

I am going to need new tires soon for the Taco. I don't like them below 1/2 tread and I would bet they are below that. Upside is these will last me a lot longer since its not driven as much. I'm not buying shit until I get my wife gets the built-in closet organizer she wants. Those are like buying that STI Stacato XC. Just need to off my ass and get to it. I say that a lot it seems.

 

[Anathollo]

I am going to need new tires soon for the Taco. I don't like them below 1/2 tread and I would bet they are below that. Upside is these will last me a lot longer since its not driven as much. I'm not buying shit until I get my wife gets the built-in closet organizer she wants. Those are like buying that STI Stacato XC. Just need to off my ass and get to it. I say that a lot it seems.

Been trying to do that for awhile now.

 

[Anathollo]

I couldn't get myself to order the P rated ones. Though at the time I didn't know I'd be adding aftermarket wheels that weigh a shit ton.

Yeah no need for thick sidewalls that will never see rocks. Just need em to hold up to curbs for the next few years

 

[balakay]

Decided I need a way to carry my spare with me. 285s dont fit in the stock location and a rear bumper is out of the po picture for a good while. Thought about building a tire gate but decided on a "bed rack" carrier. Though it will be more like a shelf. Just flat across the bed rails, no rise. Want to avoid blocking all of the rear window and dont want to go the full height of the cab. Also decided that I dont want to bokt it to the bed rails because I want to be able to move it to any position depending on what else I'm carrying. So last night I played around with making a clamp that will hold it to the bed rails. Prototype #1 turned out decent but I built it upside down or backward or something. Anyway, the 2" angle should be on top with the weld on bottom. The angle going under the bed rail has a hole drilled in it and a 3/8" nut welded on to run bolts through and clamp it to the bed. Aside from drilling the holes on the wrong piece of angle I also didnt take into account the nuts being on there so I need to spread the two piece of angle a little further apart. I'll build up another one tonight and address these issues. Planning 4 of these clamps with 1.75" tubing running across the width of the bed. Thne tie the two bars together with some cross pieces and use a wheel hub I ordered on RockAuto for $16 as the tire mount. Just need to figure out a way to lock the tire to it because people suck. Thinking either take one of the studs out of the hub, replace it with a longer one, use an open ended lugnut and use a small padlock through a hole drilled in the stud. It just run a cable lock through the wheel and lock it to the bars. Probably the cable lock. I'm inky trying to keep out honest thieves. Ignore the shutty cuts and welds. It was just a rough prototype.

 

[tx_shooter]

Also need a way to keep it from destroying your paint when sliding it back and forth.

 

[Oswego]

I just used a keyed lug nut for my spare on the tire gate. Just robbed it from one of the 4 wheels on the ground. Never had any issues when it actually moved, but I'm also rocking steel wheels so who wants them.

 

[Anathollo]

Decided I need a way to carry my spare with me. 285s dont fit in the stock location and a rear bumper is out of the po picture for a good while. Thought about building a tire gate but decided on a "bed rack" carrier. Though it will be more like a shelf. Just flat across the bed rails, no rise. Want to avoid blocking all of the rear window and dont want to go the full height of the cab. Also decided that I dont want to bokt it to the bed rails because I want to be able to move it to any position depending on what else I'm carrying. So last night I played around with making a clamp that will hold it to the bed rails. Prototype #1 turned out decent but I built it upside down or backward or something. Anyway, the 2" angle should be on top with the weld on bottom. The angle going under the bed rail has a hole drilled in it and a 3/8" nut welded on to run bolts through and clamp it to the bed. Aside from drilling the holes on the wrong piece of angle I also didnt take into account the nuts being on there so I need to spread the two piece of angle a little further apart. I'll build up another one tonight and address these issues. Planning 4 of these clamps with 1.75" tubing running across the width of the bed. Thne tie the two bars together with some cross pieces and use a wheel hub I ordered on RockAuto for $16 as the tire mount. Just need to figure out a way to lock the tire to it because people suck. Thinking either take one of the studs out of the hub, replace it with a longer one, use an open ended lugnut and use a small padlock through a hole drilled in the stud. It just run a cable lock through the wheel and lock it to the bars. Probably the cable lock. I'm inky trying to keep out honest thieves. Ignore the shutty cuts and welds. It was just a rough prototype.

View attachment 23979

Or do something like this? Sorry for the Tardworld link.
Hitch mounted Fold down spare tire carrier-So Cal

 

[CowboyTaco]

I've seen those in person and just don't like how much the tire moves on them. If I mounted a tire back there, I want it to be sturdy.

 

[Anathollo]

I've seen those in person and just don't like how much the tire moves on them. If I mounted a tire back there, I want it to be sturdy.

Ahh good to know. I haven't seen one in person yet.

 

[MatthewMay1]

Decided I need a way to carry my spare with me. 285s dont fit in the stock location and a rear bumper is out of the po picture for a good while. Thought about building a tire gate but decided on a "bed rack" carrier. Though it will be more like a shelf. Just flat across the bed rails, no rise. Want to avoid blocking all of the rear window and dont want to go the full height of the cab. Also decided that I dont want to bokt it to the bed rails because I want to be able to move it to any position depending on what else I'm carrying. So last night I played around with making a clamp that will hold it to the bed rails. Prototype #1 turned out decent but I built it upside down or backward or something. Anyway, the 2" angle should be on top with the weld on bottom. The angle going under the bed rail has a hole drilled in it and a 3/8" nut welded on to run bolts through and clamp it to the bed. Aside from drilling the holes on the wrong piece of angle I also didnt take into account the nuts being on there so I need to spread the two piece of angle a little further apart. I'll build up another one tonight and address these issues. Planning 4 of these clamps with 1.75" tubing running across the width of the bed. Thne tie the two bars together with some cross pieces and use a wheel hub I ordered on RockAuto for $16 as the tire mount. Just need to figure out a way to lock the tire to it because people suck. Thinking either take one of the studs out of the hub, replace it with a longer one, use an open ended lugnut and use a small padlock through a hole drilled in the stud. It just run a cable lock through the wheel and lock it to the bars. Probably the cable lock. I'm inky trying to keep out honest thieves. Ignore the shutty cuts and welds. It was just a rough prototype.

View attachment 23979

I would just run a cable through the wheel and around the bars.

 

[Oswego]

I would just run a cable through the wheel and around the bars.

That was my method until the bike lock I bought freaking froze up from corrosion when I needed it to unlock and swap a tire out, but I'm in the salt belt. Also what I get for buying a POS combo bicycle lock from Kryptonite, not using a cable w/eyes and a good lock